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Journal 40 Gallon Maiden Scape
Well the time has finally arrived for me to begin my first true Aquascape, so this is my Maiden Voyage into the world of Aquascaping if you will. Similar to @Sb1415's "The Beginner scaper journal" I am beginning with more of a vision than a concrete plan and I would love any input, suggestions, and constructive criticisms that you all have to offer. Here is what I'm working with to begin this:
Tank:
40 Gallon Breeder (dimensions: 36" L x 18" W x 17" D)
Lighting:
Netlea AT5S Gen 3 (90cm)
Filtration:
Oase Biomaster 2 600 Canister
Will be using intake & outflow that came w/ the Biomaster for the time being, possibly upgrading to glass or stainless in the future.
Co2:
Green Leaf Aquarium Pro-DS-1 Dual Stage Regulator
GLA Inline Atomic Inline Diffuser
5lb Bottle
Fertilization:
Mixing my own GLA Macros & Micros w/ Plantex CSM+B
Dosing Via Chihiros Dosing Pump w/ Magnetic Stirring base
Substrate:
2 Hr Aquarist APT Feast, Crushed lava rock (for height), accent gravel & decorative sand (seeking suggestions).
Hardscape:
Driftwood: Manzanita
Rock: Gneiss which I collected locally.
Plants:
Currently Being farmed which may or may not end up being used (Any suggestions on pairing, placement, or other considerations would be helpful):
Blyxa Japonica
Hygrophila Pinnatifada
Staurogyne Repens
Pogostemon Helferi
Echinodorus Aflame
Anubias Dragon Claw & various anubias variants
Riccadia Chamedryfolia
Rotala Rotundifolia Vietnam H'ra
Alternanthera reineckii var roseafolia
lobelia cardinalis
Gratiola Viscidula
Buces
Hygrophila Araguaia
Crypt Parva
Cyrpt Lucens
Lagenandra Meeboldii Green
Plants I'm Still Considering: Pogostemon Deccanensis, Limnophila Aromatica, Eriocaulon Breviscapum (if i can source it), Micranthemum 'monte carlo' (grown epiphytically).
Other considerations: Back ground.... either plain black or using frosted white window film and repurposing my Fluval Aquasky light to add a sunset effect to the background.
Water:
Will be using RO water remineralized with 2Hr Aquarist Sky Plus
Goals:
My goal here is not a contest winning tank, but a nature style aquascape that will not require an inordinate amount of maintenance. If I can maintain this with basic weekly maintenance that would be ideal. I would also love to keep this tank set up long term if possible, if I could push to 5+ years before needing to rescape that would be my ideal, but I understand sometimes things just don't work out that way. Plan currently is to finalize my hardscape set up... unsure how long this is going to take but I'm not in a rush.... when I get the hardscape to the point the tank would look great with only my hardscape, then I will move forward with a dark start. All of my driftwood is new, so I will continue the dark start until the white fuzzy mold that will inevitably form on the driftwood finally begins to subside before I begin planting.
In need of suggestions:
The tank will normally viewed at sort of a 3/4 angle from our couch, this would be my primary viewing angle. If you were to view from above I've attached some rudimentary Drawings for illustrative purposes.
I'd love to hear some ideas on how I should maybe think about laying this out. I would like to have a sand foreground (unsure about any defined "sand path" as I'm not really attempting a diorama style scape. These are sort of my options as I understand them, if there are others I'd love to hear about them. Currently leaning toward either a triangle or concave lay out, maybe with a smaller island off to one side. A single centralized Island would probably be my last choice for the simple reason they tend to feel less like a snapshot of nature and more contrived. The green arrows represent the direction of upward slope. If you have any input on how any of these layout may affect flow/ co2 distribution please advise. Would love to hear any input or thoughts on how you all might approach a layout with the above viewing angles.
My rock is dark grey/ to blackish in color, with white striations. This in an example, the white is quartz not lime or calcium. I've tested the rock with HCI and it is non reactive. Currently have some sitting in one of the farm tanks and it has not had any effect on the water parameters.
In terms of decorative sand I've been considering a darker sand to match the rock, maybe BDBS, but also considering maybe just a more natural looking sand. The area where these rocks are found don't have dark dirt around them, just regular looking dirt, this is where I would use the accent gravel to sort of create a transition between the rock work and the sand if I went with a more natural color sand. What are your thoughts?
I will begin posting photos as soon as I have my hardscape arrangement finalized. Thanks for reading and I'm looking forward to sharing this journey with all of you.
Tank:
40 Gallon Breeder (dimensions: 36" L x 18" W x 17" D)
Lighting:
Netlea AT5S Gen 3 (90cm)
Filtration:
Oase Biomaster 2 600 Canister
Will be using intake & outflow that came w/ the Biomaster for the time being, possibly upgrading to glass or stainless in the future.
Co2:
Green Leaf Aquarium Pro-DS-1 Dual Stage Regulator
GLA Inline Atomic Inline Diffuser
5lb Bottle
Fertilization:
Mixing my own GLA Macros & Micros w/ Plantex CSM+B
Dosing Via Chihiros Dosing Pump w/ Magnetic Stirring base
Substrate:
2 Hr Aquarist APT Feast, Crushed lava rock (for height), accent gravel & decorative sand (seeking suggestions).
Hardscape:
Driftwood: Manzanita
Rock: Gneiss which I collected locally.
Plants:
Currently Being farmed which may or may not end up being used (Any suggestions on pairing, placement, or other considerations would be helpful):
Blyxa Japonica
Hygrophila Pinnatifada
Staurogyne Repens
Pogostemon Helferi
Echinodorus Aflame
Anubias Dragon Claw & various anubias variants
Riccadia Chamedryfolia
Rotala Rotundifolia Vietnam H'ra
Alternanthera reineckii var roseafolia
lobelia cardinalis
Gratiola Viscidula
Buces
Hygrophila Araguaia
Crypt Parva
Cyrpt Lucens
Lagenandra Meeboldii Green
Plants I'm Still Considering: Pogostemon Deccanensis, Limnophila Aromatica, Eriocaulon Breviscapum (if i can source it), Micranthemum 'monte carlo' (grown epiphytically).
Other considerations: Back ground.... either plain black or using frosted white window film and repurposing my Fluval Aquasky light to add a sunset effect to the background.
Water:
Will be using RO water remineralized with 2Hr Aquarist Sky Plus
Goals:
My goal here is not a contest winning tank, but a nature style aquascape that will not require an inordinate amount of maintenance. If I can maintain this with basic weekly maintenance that would be ideal. I would also love to keep this tank set up long term if possible, if I could push to 5+ years before needing to rescape that would be my ideal, but I understand sometimes things just don't work out that way. Plan currently is to finalize my hardscape set up... unsure how long this is going to take but I'm not in a rush.... when I get the hardscape to the point the tank would look great with only my hardscape, then I will move forward with a dark start. All of my driftwood is new, so I will continue the dark start until the white fuzzy mold that will inevitably form on the driftwood finally begins to subside before I begin planting.
In need of suggestions:
The tank will normally viewed at sort of a 3/4 angle from our couch, this would be my primary viewing angle. If you were to view from above I've attached some rudimentary Drawings for illustrative purposes.
I'd love to hear some ideas on how I should maybe think about laying this out. I would like to have a sand foreground (unsure about any defined "sand path" as I'm not really attempting a diorama style scape. These are sort of my options as I understand them, if there are others I'd love to hear about them. Currently leaning toward either a triangle or concave lay out, maybe with a smaller island off to one side. A single centralized Island would probably be my last choice for the simple reason they tend to feel less like a snapshot of nature and more contrived. The green arrows represent the direction of upward slope. If you have any input on how any of these layout may affect flow/ co2 distribution please advise. Would love to hear any input or thoughts on how you all might approach a layout with the above viewing angles.
My rock is dark grey/ to blackish in color, with white striations. This in an example, the white is quartz not lime or calcium. I've tested the rock with HCI and it is non reactive. Currently have some sitting in one of the farm tanks and it has not had any effect on the water parameters.
In terms of decorative sand I've been considering a darker sand to match the rock, maybe BDBS, but also considering maybe just a more natural looking sand. The area where these rocks are found don't have dark dirt around them, just regular looking dirt, this is where I would use the accent gravel to sort of create a transition between the rock work and the sand if I went with a more natural color sand. What are your thoughts?
I will begin posting photos as soon as I have my hardscape arrangement finalized. Thanks for reading and I'm looking forward to sharing this journey with all of you.
20 Replies
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2643 views
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
Well, as this thread exists in a few places, I figured why not have it here also. Perhaps we can take up the baton and keep it active and bring some value to hobbyists.
For those of you that don't know, I got into thinking much more about my micros when I read this thread on another forum. It was started by our very own @GreggZ. It was spurred into existence because of our own @Burr740 and his work with micro fertilizers. Some really good discussion followed and a lot was learned.
I don't want to steal Gregg's thunder with this so I hope he posts his current thoughts on the subject and we can all take it from there.
All the best,
Art
For those of you that don't know, I got into thinking much more about my micros when I read this thread on another forum. It was started by our very own @GreggZ. It was spurred into existence because of our own @Burr740 and his work with micro fertilizers. Some really good discussion followed and a lot was learned.
I don't want to steal Gregg's thunder with this so I hope he posts his current thoughts on the subject and we can all take it from there.
All the best,
Art
98 Replies
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16450 views
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
This month's theme is: plant, hardscape and fish
This one is going to be tough but I hope some of you take up the challenge. Take a picture that captures a plant, some hardscape and at least one fish in the same picture.
Be as artistic and creative as you like.
The rules:
A $25 store credit from BurrAqua thanks to @Burr740!
This one is going to be tough but I hope some of you take up the challenge. Take a picture that captures a plant, some hardscape and at least one fish in the same picture.
Be as artistic and creative as you like.
The rules:
- Submissions are allowed between October 7 and October 23.
- Voting will start on October 23 at 12:01 am Eastern time.
- Voting will end on October 31 at 11:30 pm Eastern time.
A $25 store credit from BurrAqua thanks to @Burr740!
13 Replies
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928 views
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I Donated 2026
Rockstar
I've done some reading on the subject of reusing aquasoil. There are videos showing fully removing the soil, cleaning it to remove all old detritus, and then even baking it. @Dennis Wong (2hr Aquarist) discusses regular replenishing of depleted aquasoil but I didn't see an article on a complete new scape using old soil. It seems to me that once you have removed all hardscape and livestock from a tank, you could remove a partial amount of soil, stir up what is remaining quite well while also doing a deep vacuum to remove as much detritus as possible, and then add in fresh soil to desired substrate level. In theory this would leave a substantial amount of beneficial bacteria in the tank, and if you're also reusing biomedia, the tank would cycle in very short time.
I was about to start the next couple new tanks with new soil but have paused to consider these options. I currently have 3 scapes that I'll be breaking down, but I can break down one tank at a time now, clean the soil in the tank as I described and, move the soil to the new tank (along with the additional new soil). The catch is that I would still have to do the scaping either underwater, or holding off filling with water for the extended time while I place hardscape, so I don't know how well live bacteria in the old soil would handle that.
Curious to hear other's thoughts, especially if you've actually done this.
I was about to start the next couple new tanks with new soil but have paused to consider these options. I currently have 3 scapes that I'll be breaking down, but I can break down one tank at a time now, clean the soil in the tank as I described and, move the soil to the new tank (along with the additional new soil). The catch is that I would still have to do the scaping either underwater, or holding off filling with water for the extended time while I place hardscape, so I don't know how well live bacteria in the old soil would handle that.
Curious to hear other's thoughts, especially if you've actually done this.
5 Replies
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135 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Rockstar
Journal Jay's 22 Long Iwagumi
I thought I would go ahead and get an early start on the journal for my next build. Still some prep work to complete but I was able to sneak some time in this evening to do some leak testing.
No need for a ton of media on this tank so I'll be using the "Temu" filters I recently talked about; one as just a full foam prefilter and the other as part foam, part matrix. I failed to mention, when I posted my initial unboxing of the temu filters, that they do come in 2 sizes for each configuration, a 200 series, and the slightly larger 240 series. I think using the smaller 200 as the prefilter will work well in this setup. I was really surprised to see how much the foam expanded once it got wet. I may actually remove the top portion of foam in the filter with the matrix. Also, I confirmed the Netlea valves do work on the Temu filters.
I'm going with the MDP-2500 pump which may seem overkill for a 22g tank, but since it's 90cm in length, I want to make sure I have good flow end-to-end, and the 1500 pump I tried wasn't giving me quite what I wanted. I still also have to go through an inline heater as well, with several elbow fittings mixed in. I'll be able to adjust this pump down to just what I want. I'm also using the 3D printed barbs I modeled with the pump. I initially had issues with my elbow fittings leaking just as @renesis did on their high tech build. After seeing renesis's fix of coating the elbow with epoxy, I was about to try the same but realized I had a small can of spray-on Flex Seal so thought I'd give that a try. So far, it seems to be working fine on the elbow fitting. I do have a small leak on the output straight fitting but I think that's a different issue.
Otherwise, no other leaks which surprised me as I was expecting some on my DIY CO2 reactor which is a bit different design than my previous builds. It's working great and I want to give a shoutout to @Yugang for the idea of simply using some teflon sealing tape to seal the PVC caps to the Acrylic tube. You don't even need many wraps. I made the mistake of using too much on one end and when I tried to take it back off, it was quite a struggle, almost as if I had glued it, so trust me, as long as your cap I.D. matches your pipe O.D., a few wraps should do the trick.
More to come.
No need for a ton of media on this tank so I'll be using the "Temu" filters I recently talked about; one as just a full foam prefilter and the other as part foam, part matrix. I failed to mention, when I posted my initial unboxing of the temu filters, that they do come in 2 sizes for each configuration, a 200 series, and the slightly larger 240 series. I think using the smaller 200 as the prefilter will work well in this setup. I was really surprised to see how much the foam expanded once it got wet. I may actually remove the top portion of foam in the filter with the matrix. Also, I confirmed the Netlea valves do work on the Temu filters.
I'm going with the MDP-2500 pump which may seem overkill for a 22g tank, but since it's 90cm in length, I want to make sure I have good flow end-to-end, and the 1500 pump I tried wasn't giving me quite what I wanted. I still also have to go through an inline heater as well, with several elbow fittings mixed in. I'll be able to adjust this pump down to just what I want. I'm also using the 3D printed barbs I modeled with the pump. I initially had issues with my elbow fittings leaking just as @renesis did on their high tech build. After seeing renesis's fix of coating the elbow with epoxy, I was about to try the same but realized I had a small can of spray-on Flex Seal so thought I'd give that a try. So far, it seems to be working fine on the elbow fitting. I do have a small leak on the output straight fitting but I think that's a different issue.
Otherwise, no other leaks which surprised me as I was expecting some on my DIY CO2 reactor which is a bit different design than my previous builds. It's working great and I want to give a shoutout to @Yugang for the idea of simply using some teflon sealing tape to seal the PVC caps to the Acrylic tube. You don't even need many wraps. I made the mistake of using too much on one end and when I tried to take it back off, it was quite a struggle, almost as if I had glued it, so trust me, as long as your cap I.D. matches your pipe O.D., a few wraps should do the trick.
More to come.
0 Replies
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23 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Rockstar
I hadn't seen it mentioned by others that attended Aquashella, but if you hadn't already heard about it or seen it in Aquashella videos, ADA has come out with Amazonia Pro. It's not a replacement for Version 2, but an addition. It is essentially Version 2 on steroids with higher nutrients and of course the negative side effect of potentially higher initial ammonia leaching and, if your not prepared and skilled, more chance of algae. That's even from the mouth of Homma-san himself. The scaping competitors were using it in the competition and AFA was selling 9l bags at the show. They said it would be available on the website within the next couple weeks.
42 Replies
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1724 views
Supporting
I Donated 2026
Rockstar
Browsed the Sreepadma booth at Aquashella briefly today. I'd not heard of them but they are the largest aquatic plant farm in India and have been selling their TC offerings in the US for about 2 years. I was actually impressed with the qualty I was seeing of their TC cups and wish I had room in a tank for some (and some ADA TC). Has anyone else purchased any of their plants. One of the first that I spotted was Red Tiger Crypt which was a coincidence since we have a thread discussing it.
15 Replies
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698 views
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I Donated 2026
Rockstar
Journal Attempting a True Dutch
This tank was a Dutch-ish tank before we moved 2 months ago. This was one of its last pictures, very overgrown I know.
This time I want to make it a true Dutch, so anyone can chime in and help me.
After we moved, it ran low-tech with just a few tissue cultures until this week when I finally had time and materials to finish setting it up. This is what it looks like now:
I know there’s some bubbles showing in the vinyl cling. I’m having trouble reaching back there to smooth it out. I’ll have to think about how to fix that, although when the plants grow in it may not be visible anyway. I did read that you can have 1 rock in a Dutch scape, so I kept one. I may put Monte Carlo on it again, I haven’t decided.
So, details…
Tank: UNS 90U, 68 gallons
Light: Week Aqua P900 Pro, current settings R 40%, G 51%, B 20%, UV 0, Fan 100, Power 51%.
8 hours of light with 30 min ramp up/down
Par—no idea
Filtration: Fluval Fx4, currently running at 75%. Any higher blows the fish around. I expect to be able to increase it when the plants are grown in.
CO2: Yugang stainless steel reactor, 370 mm long, working really well. I had to turn down the CO2 a bit today because the drop was more than I expected (from degassed 7.4 to 5.9). I’ve already changed the end cap to the medium setting, but I think I’m just going to make further adjustments with the regulator. Call it laziness, but since there aren’t any double taps available for the Fx4 tubing that’s going to be easier for me. Anyway, I really like it. It’s completely silent and does its job well.
Substrate: Aqua Natural Galaxy sand, with a few Aquarium Coop root tabs.
Other: Oase CrystalSkim 350 skimmer, Kactoily 6-in-1 water quality monitor
Fertilizer: Until today I’ve just been using Easy Green. Today I installed the Chihiro’s dosing system with PPS-Pro, 6 ml macros and 3 ml micros daily. On water change day, I’ll add another 2 ml macros. I’m currently changing 20% of the water once a week. I’ll increase if necessary.
Parameters: Ammonia and Nitrite 0, Nitrate 10 ppm, gH 6, kH 2, TDS 222, 70-74 F
Plants (mostly from @Burr740 thanks!):
Leopard Val
Echinodorus Aflame
Hydrocotyle Tripartita (coming)
Penthorum Sedioides
Crypt Wendtii Sindoor
Lobelia cardinalis mini
Bacopa colorata
Rotala (? back left corner)
Limnophila wilsonii
Nymphae Peru Puerto Maldonade
Rotala macrandra Kochi
Nymphoides Taiwan
I’m not sure I like the Leopard Val in there. Should I put it in my 125 gallon instead, and move the Limnophila wilsonii to that spot?
Fish:
1 Honey Flame Gourami
4 Ember tetras
8 Otos
2 Pygmy sunfish
4 Red neon blue-eyed rainbowfish
9 Pygmy Cory catfish
9 male Lime Green Endlers
1 Leopard Danio (last of a group)
A few random Amano and Neocaridina shrimp and snails
The fish list will change as I get more tanks set up. I would like to end up with just the gourami, Otos, Rainbowfish (but more of them), and Pygmy Cories.
Well, that’s a start. Thanks for reading!
This time I want to make it a true Dutch, so anyone can chime in and help me.
After we moved, it ran low-tech with just a few tissue cultures until this week when I finally had time and materials to finish setting it up. This is what it looks like now:
I know there’s some bubbles showing in the vinyl cling. I’m having trouble reaching back there to smooth it out. I’ll have to think about how to fix that, although when the plants grow in it may not be visible anyway. I did read that you can have 1 rock in a Dutch scape, so I kept one. I may put Monte Carlo on it again, I haven’t decided.
So, details…
Tank: UNS 90U, 68 gallons
Light: Week Aqua P900 Pro, current settings R 40%, G 51%, B 20%, UV 0, Fan 100, Power 51%.
8 hours of light with 30 min ramp up/down
Par—no idea
Filtration: Fluval Fx4, currently running at 75%. Any higher blows the fish around. I expect to be able to increase it when the plants are grown in.
CO2: Yugang stainless steel reactor, 370 mm long, working really well. I had to turn down the CO2 a bit today because the drop was more than I expected (from degassed 7.4 to 5.9). I’ve already changed the end cap to the medium setting, but I think I’m just going to make further adjustments with the regulator. Call it laziness, but since there aren’t any double taps available for the Fx4 tubing that’s going to be easier for me. Anyway, I really like it. It’s completely silent and does its job well.
Substrate: Aqua Natural Galaxy sand, with a few Aquarium Coop root tabs.
Other: Oase CrystalSkim 350 skimmer, Kactoily 6-in-1 water quality monitor
Fertilizer: Until today I’ve just been using Easy Green. Today I installed the Chihiro’s dosing system with PPS-Pro, 6 ml macros and 3 ml micros daily. On water change day, I’ll add another 2 ml macros. I’m currently changing 20% of the water once a week. I’ll increase if necessary.
Parameters: Ammonia and Nitrite 0, Nitrate 10 ppm, gH 6, kH 2, TDS 222, 70-74 F
Plants (mostly from @Burr740 thanks!):
Leopard Val
Echinodorus Aflame
Hydrocotyle Tripartita (coming)
Penthorum Sedioides
Crypt Wendtii Sindoor
Lobelia cardinalis mini
Bacopa colorata
Rotala (? back left corner)
Limnophila wilsonii
Nymphae Peru Puerto Maldonade
Rotala macrandra Kochi
Nymphoides Taiwan
I’m not sure I like the Leopard Val in there. Should I put it in my 125 gallon instead, and move the Limnophila wilsonii to that spot?
Fish:
1 Honey Flame Gourami
4 Ember tetras
8 Otos
2 Pygmy sunfish
4 Red neon blue-eyed rainbowfish
9 Pygmy Cory catfish
9 male Lime Green Endlers
1 Leopard Danio (last of a group)
A few random Amano and Neocaridina shrimp and snails
The fish list will change as I get more tanks set up. I would like to end up with just the gourami, Otos, Rainbowfish (but more of them), and Pygmy Cories.
Well, that’s a start. Thanks for reading!
293 Replies
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31927 views
Journal High-Tech 90P Build
Hi guys!
I'm new here, but not entirely new to planted tanks though I've been out of the hobby for the better part of the last decade between kids and moving a couple of times - but finally in a spot where I can do something again. I'm mostly going to be making things up as I go along, but plan on a lot of automation (I want to integrate everything into home assistant) and a lot of DIY as I love the challenge of building things out myself.
The starting point:
I picked up a 90P rimless, low-iron tank on a great deal.
I have a rough idea in my head for a stand to be built from plywood - just have a couple other house projects to finish off before starting that built.
Wife says I can only have one aquarium, so for this tank, I want to go all out with a sump to allow for auto top off, and auto water changes, auto fertilizer dosing etc. etc. I have half a plan in my mind.
I've also started on the light fixture which I've modeled up in CAD, and plan on making out of an 8020 extrusion, and some 3D printed bits.
I'm using bridgelux gen 3 thrive CW (3000k) and WW (5000k) LED strips which have super high CRI at 98+ along with some specific XPE2 wavelengths that I'll solder onto some starboards. Far Red (730nm), Red (654nm), Cyan (495nm), Blue (455nm), Visible UV (415nm). Each segment of the white channels will be on its own driver so I can adjust left to right brightness in thirds, and each colour channel on its own driver so I can vary each channel on a time-based approach.
These will be run from a custom PCB board with Meanwell N-LDD drivers, and will run ESPHome on an ESP32 so it can link up with my Home Assistant installation.
That's it for now, this will probably be a very slow build so be warned if you follow along!
I'm new here, but not entirely new to planted tanks though I've been out of the hobby for the better part of the last decade between kids and moving a couple of times - but finally in a spot where I can do something again. I'm mostly going to be making things up as I go along, but plan on a lot of automation (I want to integrate everything into home assistant) and a lot of DIY as I love the challenge of building things out myself.
The starting point:
I picked up a 90P rimless, low-iron tank on a great deal.
I have a rough idea in my head for a stand to be built from plywood - just have a couple other house projects to finish off before starting that built.
Wife says I can only have one aquarium, so for this tank, I want to go all out with a sump to allow for auto top off, and auto water changes, auto fertilizer dosing etc. etc. I have half a plan in my mind.
I've also started on the light fixture which I've modeled up in CAD, and plan on making out of an 8020 extrusion, and some 3D printed bits.
I'm using bridgelux gen 3 thrive CW (3000k) and WW (5000k) LED strips which have super high CRI at 98+ along with some specific XPE2 wavelengths that I'll solder onto some starboards. Far Red (730nm), Red (654nm), Cyan (495nm), Blue (455nm), Visible UV (415nm). Each segment of the white channels will be on its own driver so I can adjust left to right brightness in thirds, and each colour channel on its own driver so I can vary each channel on a time-based approach.
These will be run from a custom PCB board with Meanwell N-LDD drivers, and will run ESPHome on an ESP32 so it can link up with my Home Assistant installation.
That's it for now, this will probably be a very slow build so be warned if you follow along!
85 Replies
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6144 views
Wrapped up my AGA submittal a few weeks ago, and I just can't seem to bring myself to take care of my tank right now 
I think I'm experiencing burnout. I go through these cycles where my tank is all I can think about for a few weeks/months, and then I need a break, and I can't bring myself to do my usual water change and trim schedule. The good news is my tank has so much healthy plant mass that algae doesnt grow even after a few weeks of neglect.
Any tips on fighting this tendency? I think my first idea is to slow everything down, lower my nitrate to more of a zero-bound system and try to reduce my stem trimming frequency. My second idea is making my water change easier. Right now the hardest part is siphoning detritus into buckets that I walk to the toilet. After that I pump the tank down the rest of the way. How do you guys do this? I would siphon straight to the toilet but I'm bound to accidently send a shrimp to their doom that way.
I think I'm experiencing burnout. I go through these cycles where my tank is all I can think about for a few weeks/months, and then I need a break, and I can't bring myself to do my usual water change and trim schedule. The good news is my tank has so much healthy plant mass that algae doesnt grow even after a few weeks of neglect.Any tips on fighting this tendency? I think my first idea is to slow everything down, lower my nitrate to more of a zero-bound system and try to reduce my stem trimming frequency. My second idea is making my water change easier. Right now the hardest part is siphoning detritus into buckets that I walk to the toilet. After that I pump the tank down the rest of the way. How do you guys do this? I would siphon straight to the toilet but I'm bound to accidently send a shrimp to their doom that way.
40 Replies
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1124 views
Staff member
I Donated 2026
Founding Member
Hello Welcome, greenpinkyS
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @greenpinkyS!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
0 Replies
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21 views