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Journal Greggz 120G Rainbow Fish Tank - Part Deux!
- Thread starter GreggZ
- Start date
- Tagged users None
- Thread starter
- #22
Hey Jeff good to see you here. And I WILL have more Cabomba before long. Since I posted pics of it it's been in high demand!Where have I seen that forum banner before?...and stop teasing me with the Cabomba F. (inside joke)
- Thread starter
- #23
For those that are interested here is more than you probably want to know about my tank.
In other news over the summer I went through a period of testing lower light and lower dosing. Tank did OK but was not great. Plants healthy but not near peak color. Some like Pantanal looked quite a bit worse. Nodes became further apart, heads smaller, and stems thinner. It was spending all of it's energy trying to race to the light. Turned light back up and increased ferts and things are back on autopilot.
In fact rather than testing lower limits of dosing I am now going the other way. Some people think more ferts create algae. Well I am going to be testing that theory and keep slowly raising ferts and see how tank does. I've actually already started and so far so good. I'll report back as things progress.
In other news over the summer I went through a period of testing lower light and lower dosing. Tank did OK but was not great. Plants healthy but not near peak color. Some like Pantanal looked quite a bit worse. Nodes became further apart, heads smaller, and stems thinner. It was spending all of it's energy trying to race to the light. Turned light back up and increased ferts and things are back on autopilot.
In fact rather than testing lower limits of dosing I am now going the other way. Some people think more ferts create algae. Well I am going to be testing that theory and keep slowly raising ferts and see how tank does. I've actually already started and so far so good. I'll report back as things progress.
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This is still a very controversial topic. 1. Do excess ferts cause algae? 2. Do they not cause it, but help sustain it? 3. Neither?
I always look at this way, every tank whether they are planted or not have two things in common, light and decaying organics. They don't all get fert dosing but they all have the capacity to get algae. Go into any LFS and see all the algae in their fish only tanks, I don't think they are dosing EI type ferts or any ferts other than fish food/waste.
It will be interesting to see what happens in your tank.
- Thread starter
- #25
Agree with all you said Jeff.
When people have algae they usually blame dosing. Reality is it's very unlikely. In a well run healthy clean tank you can get by on a pretty wide range of dosing without algae. Like you said, light and organics play a large role. Too much or too little light can be an issue, and you can't underestimate the effect of maintenance/horticulture. One thing we have both always stressed is that uber clean conditions make every single other thing easier.
It's funny I have tested the lower limits of dosing many times over the years. I don't even know why. Seems noble or something to dose lean. But every single time my tank does worse, not better. More algae, not less. Poorly fed starving plants are a prime target for all algae.
But I haven't really tested upper ranges in a LONG time. Right now I have bumped up NO3 and K from the levels I posted above for a few weeks and so far so good. I intend to take them even above EI levels just to see what happens.
One other thing I believe in is stability. Plants do not like sudden changes. So going to do this very slowly over weeks/months and observe. Should be interesting.
Yep, the stability thing is big. That's across the board as most species of plants/animals can adapt, small moves.
Question, are you still on the same Landen AS that you replaced the BDBS with?
- Thread starter
- #27
Yep and good question. Almost three years ago since the substrate swap.
A couple of times I have done a MAJOR reset of the substrate. I mean taking all fish and plants out, and rinsing until it runs clear. More gunk comes out than you can even imagine.
The Landen has held up very well over time and still looks great. I know some say you need to replace the substrate every so often. For me my tank is better than ever with the old soil. IMO the soil makes much less difference than most think. It's by far not the key to a planted tank.
I think your going to get a burst from the AS, but after that it putters out. Did you get the burst? Good think your heavily dosing the column, especially after three years. If this was an ADA tank you'd be replacing or at least putting down some fresh stuff if you wanted to keep the column lean. I was going to try the Landen next just for the hell of it, I've already had ADA many times and currently have both inert.
- Thread starter
- #29
I am very happy with the Landen. It has kept it's shape and has not broken down to mud like some other substrates I have seen.
And I should clarify. The substrate is important, but it's more about maintenance of the substrate. An old clean substrate is better than a newer filthy one.
Having kept both active and inert I believe you can have a great tank with either. The active is just a bit more forgiving, and some plants prefer it. But if you find the right plants inert works quite well too.
Yep, it's differently knowing which plants will work, I mean you had your tank inert forever right, before you want active and it wasn't too shabby. The AS also of course gives you the ability to lower KH if not using RO, which I'm not. So with my KH of 4, I can probably grow most things, but a lower KH might help and/or include more. There are also some plants that I see the gurus talking about that they recommend only active for the ammonia in the soil.
I actually picked up a Xyris Red and some Centrolepis Drummondiana about a month ago, they seem to being doing well in the inert, but the Centrolepis isn't that red even under 130 PAR so could be lack of Ammonia in soil and/or too much N in the column.
- Thread starter
- #31
Jeff here is the last pic of the tank with inert BDBS . Goes to the point that you can have a pretty good tank with either. You've got a couple of interesting ones there that will be a test in the inert. Joe Harvey still has both BDBS and Landen tanks and is a good source to know which does better in what.
Like I said not too shabby! Unless those big rainbows are strategically placed to hide some deficiencies, but I'm doubting that.
I did actually converse a bit on your favorite forum with JH about the Rotala SG, before I saw your post on FB. I never had an SG variant before so wanted to make sure my KH 4 and inert was OK, he thought it was fine as well and it's seems to be doing pretty good, although I'm still getting some stunted stems which he felt wasn't that unusual.
toofewfish
Community Member
What a great looking tank, as always. Followed your Journal on TPT for a long time. Hope this is your new home.
Also, you're kind of a neighbor, I live out in Howell.
Also, you're kind of a neighbor, I live out in Howell.
- Thread starter
- #34
Hey good to hear from a neighbor! You are right down the road from me.
Glad to hear you followed the old journal. It's too bad things ended the way it did.
I just had another planted tanker from Royal Oak stop by to visit and pick up a few plants. If we find a few more maybe could start a local club! If you ever need some new plants to try let me know.
- Thread starter
- #36
Yep my incoming water is pre dosed at PO4 10 ppm. Now as to actual levels always hard to say as determining anything between 5 and 10 ppm is a bit of a guess based on shades of blue, and I rarely test. I base the dosing more on how the plants react.
I do have a Salifert test which might give easer to interpret results. I'll do a couple of tests of the incoming pre dosed water to tank water before a water change and report back.
Most likely will be less than 10 ppm as there is uptake from plants and there is still some buffering going on from the substrate.
- Thread starter
- #38
Hey good to see you sign up here my friend!! It's been awhile and I always enjoyed tossing around ideas with you.So glad to see this! I have missed interacting with this great group on a forum level since deciding to not participate on another forumI'll be following along, this tank looks promising
Thank you for saying the tank looks promising......after many, many years I am now about 1/2 way there!
I look forward to seeing what you are up to? Still medium light? On the edge of high/low tech?
- Thread starter
- #39
I hope everyone who has joined is enjoying the forum.
Over time my plan is to post summaries of many of the discussions from my old long running thread that I kept on another site. Keep in mind these posts are my thoughts on a particular subject based my experience. Others may have other ideas which are just as valid. I am open to hearing other opinions and techniques and welcome any discussion these thoughts might generate.
To that end I will update this thread at times by cross posting my answers to questions asked on other threads. Today I responded to a post about remineralizing RO water. Here's a repost of my response.
How to remineralize RO Water
I've been using RO for many years now.
The benefit of RO is that it has been stripped of pretty much everything, including dKH and dGH. So it's a blank canvas that you can remineralize any way you like.
Let's start with dGH which is commonly referred to as general hardness. It is comprised mainly of calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg). It also includes things like iron and Manganese but these are normally in such small amounts it has very little affect on the calculation. If you would like to add back dGH, all that you need is CaSO4 and MgSO4. You can choose to raise it to any level you prefer, but most people that I know raise it to somewhere between 3 and 6 degrees.
You also can choose what ratio you would like between Ca and Mg. A general rule is about a 3:1 ratio of Ca to Mg. But some prefer 4:1 or 2:1. Personally I run mine at 2:1 for a total dGH of around 4.
Next you need to learn how to calculate how much you need to add to reach your target. You can use either the Rotalabutterfly or Zorfox planted tank calculator. Here's an example for my tank. In my 120G tank I have about 105G of actual water volume. If I want to raise my Ca to 15 ppm, here is the calculation. Note that the calculation also shows how much dGH is being added. You will need that number to calculate your total dGH.
Then you would do the same to calculate how much MgSO4 to add. Once you calculate that amount you add together the degress of dGH that each is providing to get your total dGH. Here how that looks in my tank.
This is the easiest and most cost effective way to raise general hardness. The other option is to purchase a commercial "GH Booster". These are normally comprised of Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), and Potassium (K) at a ratio of somewhere around 3:1:6. So two things you need to know about a GH booster. They add loads of K, and they cost many times more than the sum of the base ingredients. It's much more cost effective to buy your own CaSO4 and MgSO4, and you set your Ca:Mg ratio to anything you like.
Here is an example of a common commercially available GH Booster here in the US showing what it adds to raise dKH to 4 degrees.
Now on to dKH, which is referred to as carbonate hardness. Carbonate hardness is made up of either CO3 (carbonate) or HCO3 (Bicarbonate). Most people use either Potassium Carbonate (K2CO3) or Potassium Bicarbonate (KHCO3) to add dKH.
Before you get started you need to determine what level you want to raise dKH to. Personally I don’t add anything for carbonate hardness and run my tank at essentially zero dKH. Most plants prefer softer water and the softer the better. But if you choose to add carbonate hardness it’s easy to calculate. Here’s the calculation for my tank if I wanted to raise dKH to 2 degrees using K2CO3. Notice that the K2CO3 is also adding a large amount of Potassium (K). You need to keep this in mind as you calculate your other macro nutrient dosing.
One other consideration is how you dose both dGH and dKH. I dose mine into RO storage tanks. That way everything is premixed and dissolved when it gets pumped to the tank. I also dose all macro fertilizers into the storage tanks (NO3, PO4, K) as well, but that is a longer discussion.
You could also dose directly into the tank. But there are a couple of things to keep in mind. When raising dGH the Ca and Mg can take some time to dissolve, so you will have some time with white specs all over the tank. No big deal really as they go away in time.
When raising dKH, it’s always best to dose to a separate container and let it dissolve first. Even if it’s just in a small bucket. The reason is when you initially dose K2CO3 or KHCO3 there is a sudden large pH spike. It takes about 12 hours to come to come to equilibrium. I mention this is as depending on how much you are adding the sudden rise could affect livestock.
I hope that summary helps. If anyone has any questions I’d be glad to share my thoughts.
Over time my plan is to post summaries of many of the discussions from my old long running thread that I kept on another site. Keep in mind these posts are my thoughts on a particular subject based my experience. Others may have other ideas which are just as valid. I am open to hearing other opinions and techniques and welcome any discussion these thoughts might generate.
To that end I will update this thread at times by cross posting my answers to questions asked on other threads. Today I responded to a post about remineralizing RO water. Here's a repost of my response.
How to remineralize RO Water
I've been using RO for many years now.
The benefit of RO is that it has been stripped of pretty much everything, including dKH and dGH. So it's a blank canvas that you can remineralize any way you like.
Let's start with dGH which is commonly referred to as general hardness. It is comprised mainly of calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg). It also includes things like iron and Manganese but these are normally in such small amounts it has very little affect on the calculation. If you would like to add back dGH, all that you need is CaSO4 and MgSO4. You can choose to raise it to any level you prefer, but most people that I know raise it to somewhere between 3 and 6 degrees.
You also can choose what ratio you would like between Ca and Mg. A general rule is about a 3:1 ratio of Ca to Mg. But some prefer 4:1 or 2:1. Personally I run mine at 2:1 for a total dGH of around 4.
Next you need to learn how to calculate how much you need to add to reach your target. You can use either the Rotalabutterfly or Zorfox planted tank calculator. Here's an example for my tank. In my 120G tank I have about 105G of actual water volume. If I want to raise my Ca to 15 ppm, here is the calculation. Note that the calculation also shows how much dGH is being added. You will need that number to calculate your total dGH.
Then you would do the same to calculate how much MgSO4 to add. Once you calculate that amount you add together the degress of dGH that each is providing to get your total dGH. Here how that looks in my tank.
This is the easiest and most cost effective way to raise general hardness. The other option is to purchase a commercial "GH Booster". These are normally comprised of Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), and Potassium (K) at a ratio of somewhere around 3:1:6. So two things you need to know about a GH booster. They add loads of K, and they cost many times more than the sum of the base ingredients. It's much more cost effective to buy your own CaSO4 and MgSO4, and you set your Ca:Mg ratio to anything you like.
Here is an example of a common commercially available GH Booster here in the US showing what it adds to raise dKH to 4 degrees.
Now on to dKH, which is referred to as carbonate hardness. Carbonate hardness is made up of either CO3 (carbonate) or HCO3 (Bicarbonate). Most people use either Potassium Carbonate (K2CO3) or Potassium Bicarbonate (KHCO3) to add dKH.
Before you get started you need to determine what level you want to raise dKH to. Personally I don’t add anything for carbonate hardness and run my tank at essentially zero dKH. Most plants prefer softer water and the softer the better. But if you choose to add carbonate hardness it’s easy to calculate. Here’s the calculation for my tank if I wanted to raise dKH to 2 degrees using K2CO3. Notice that the K2CO3 is also adding a large amount of Potassium (K). You need to keep this in mind as you calculate your other macro nutrient dosing.
One other consideration is how you dose both dGH and dKH. I dose mine into RO storage tanks. That way everything is premixed and dissolved when it gets pumped to the tank. I also dose all macro fertilizers into the storage tanks (NO3, PO4, K) as well, but that is a longer discussion.
You could also dose directly into the tank. But there are a couple of things to keep in mind. When raising dGH the Ca and Mg can take some time to dissolve, so you will have some time with white specs all over the tank. No big deal really as they go away in time.
When raising dKH, it’s always best to dose to a separate container and let it dissolve first. Even if it’s just in a small bucket. The reason is when you initially dose K2CO3 or KHCO3 there is a sudden large pH spike. It takes about 12 hours to come to come to equilibrium. I mention this is as depending on how much you are adding the sudden rise could affect livestock.
I hope that summary helps. If anyone has any questions I’d be glad to share my thoughts.
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- Thread starter
- #40
Another cross post from the Micro Nutrient thread.
I was recently asked to write an article about custom micros. As some know I have been making my own now for quite a few years. I thought it was a good opportunity to try to take a complicated topic and make it easier to understand. Not sure if I succeeded or not. And thanks to my friends Vin Kutty and Joe Harvey who helped lend me a hand. To say I respect both of their thoughts is an understatement. They are two of the guys who are the reason that I got into the hobby. So here's what I came up. I hope it helps someone out there. And I am open to questions, compliments, criticisms or anything else you guys come up with.
Custom Micro Nutrients for the Planted Tank
What are custom Micro Nutrients?
Advanced aquarists have been making their own macro nutrient fertilizers for many years. Macros are the nutrients that plants need in large amounts. These include Nitrogen, Potassium, and Phosphate. Rather than purchase a premade mix, many purchase the individual dry salts and create their own custom blend.
In addition to macronutrients, plants also need micronutrients. These are nutrients that are required in very small or “trace” amounts. Until a few years ago, there were not many choices when it came to micronutrients. This has slowly been changing and there is new trend that has emerged: rather than purchasing premade mixes, many are now creating their own custom blend of DIY (Do It Yourself) micronutrients.
I first became aware of custom micros from my good friend Joe Harvey (2017 AGA Dutch 1st place). Joe and I have shared ideas on how we manage our planted tanks for many years. He explained that he had purchased the ingredients and was making his own custom micro mix. He asked if I wanted to go down this road with him. I am always looking for new ways to improve my tank and gladly said yes.
Why would someone want to create their own micronutrients?
Until recently, there have been limited options when it comes to micronutrients. You could purchase a premixed liquid solution, or you could purchase a dry mix like CSM + B. With larger tanks liquid solutions are not cost effective, and dry salts like CSM+B were not developed with the aquarium hobby in mind. It can have real issues with consistency when dosing in small amounts. With either you can’t change or adjust the ratios or the ingredients that they put into their formulas. When you make your own, you can custom tailor a solution to your own needs and be assured that the amount of every nutrient is the same in every dose.
As an example, let’s start with iron. There are several types of iron commonly found in micro mixes. These include Ferrous Gluconate, EDTA, and DTPA. They all have different chelating agents and work best at different pH levels.
Ferrous Gluconate is the easiest for plants to uptake and works best in low pH environments. It also has the weakest chelate, so it only remains available to plants for a short time. It is absorbed rapidly, like in hours. As you add stronger chelating agents, the iron is more stable and is released more slowly. For instance EDTA has a stronger chelate and will be available or a longer period of time. However keep in mind that it is most available at lower pH levels (below 6.5). DTPA has the strongest chelating agent and is best for tanks with a higher pH (6.5 to 8 pH). Many people don’t understand that the mix they purchase may not be providing the most effective source of iron for their tanks.
Other advantages of custom micronutrients are that they provide a lower average cost over time, the ability to customize the formula, and the confidence that each dose is consistent. And that consistency is one of the keys to success. In my experience, most micronutrients work best in a range. Too much or too little can have a harmful effect on a tank. When we create our own mix, we can be sure that we are always providing our preferred amounts.
What ingredients do you need to make your own custom Micro Nutrient Mix?
The first thing you will need to do is source the ingredients. Most of the components are sold in ½ or 1-pound bags. For most of these items that is enough for a lifetime supply! Remember we are using these to dose very small trace amounts. Here is a typical list of elements that go into a custom micro mix (Note: Some people consider Nickel to be optional). I’ve also listed the weekly ppm that I dose into my own tank. Over the course of many years I have experimented with various levels of each element. I’ve also compared those levels to others I know and respect in the hobby. All in all I have found this a good general starting point for most tanks.
The main component in a micro mix is Iron (Fe). As we discussed above you could use Ferrous Gluconate, EDTA, or DTPA. Which one works best for your tank depends on your tank’s pH level. Personally, I use both DTPA 11% and Ferrous Gluconate in my mix.
In addition to the elements, you will also need the following.
When I first sourced everything above my initial investment was about $100.00. That’s lasted me about 5 years now and with many of the elements it is pretty much a lifetime supply. There are also kits you can buy from places like BurrAqua (www.burraqua.com) if you don’t want to source everything yourself.
How do you make your own custom Micro Nutrient mix?
The next step is learning how to calculate how much of each item to add to your customized mix. Keep in mind that you are making a custom solution that is unique to your tank. The good news is it’s much easier than you think. There are planted tank calculators available that make the process very simple. You can use either RotalaButterfly (Rotala Butterfly | Planted Aquarium Calculators & Information) or the Zorfox Planted Tank calculators (Zorfox's Planted Tank Calculator). Once you understand how to use these tools, they will become one of your best friends as you advance in the hobby.
To use the calculators you will need to know your actual water volume, your container size (1000ml), the size of the dose you prefer, and how many ppm of each item you want to provide per dose. For instance in my tank my actual tank water volume is 105 gallons. I am using a 1000ml container for my solution. I dose 20ml of solution into my tank daily.
Let’s start with iron. I would like to dose 0.40 ppm of iron weekly, so that means I need to dose 0.0571 daily. When I enter these numbers into one of the calculators it will calculate that I need to add 10.32 gm of DTPA 11% to my 1000ml solution to provide 0.0571 ppm iron per 20 ml dose. Once you understand how to perform that calculation it’s easy to calculate the rest of the elements.
Here's how that calculation looks on Rotala Butterfly.
Here’s the actual recipe for my custom solution.
Once you have added the elements to the solution it’s a good idea to add a mold inhibitor. I use either 20 ml of distilled white vinegar or 0.4 gram potassium sorbate added to a 1,000ml container. I also recommend storing the container in a dark area like a closet, so it’s not subjected to sunlight.
How do I measure such small quantities of Cu, Mo, and Ni?
This is a question that comes up often. These three elements are needed in miniscule amounts. It is very difficult to measure these tiny amounts like 0.01 grams of Nickel accurately and consistently.
That is why I recommend creating a separate second 1000ml solution for these three minerals. You’re essentially making a super-concentrated solution of these three minerals instead of measuring teeny tiny amounts of powder. You then add some of the super concentrated solution to the primary solution (serial dilution). This will make your dosing more accurate and consistent.
Once you make your secondary solution, you add a little of the secondary solution to raise the ppm to the targets in our primary solution. It also saves a lot of time each time you need to make a new batch of micros. No more struggling to measure very small amounts of powder.
How do I make a secondary solution?
If you make a secondary solution, you will need two 1000ml containers.
The primary solution will contain Fe, B, Zn, and Mn.
The secondary solution wil contain Cu, Mo, and Ni.
In my case, I create my secondary solution and then add 60ml of it back to my primary solution.
My primary solution is enough for 50 days of dosing. But the 1000 ml of secondary solution will last for 800 days!
It’s a bit more work up front but saves lots of time in the long run. It also helps to make sure your mix is consistent and accurate.
I’ve been making my own custom micros for years now. I can tell you that once you have purchased everything and made the calculations it takes me less than 5 minutes to make a new batch. If you look at the effort and time we spend creating our underwater gardens, in my opinion making your own DIY micronutrients is relatively easy and well worth the effort.
I was recently asked to write an article about custom micros. As some know I have been making my own now for quite a few years. I thought it was a good opportunity to try to take a complicated topic and make it easier to understand. Not sure if I succeeded or not. And thanks to my friends Vin Kutty and Joe Harvey who helped lend me a hand. To say I respect both of their thoughts is an understatement. They are two of the guys who are the reason that I got into the hobby. So here's what I came up. I hope it helps someone out there. And I am open to questions, compliments, criticisms or anything else you guys come up with.
Custom Micro Nutrients for the Planted Tank
What are custom Micro Nutrients?
Advanced aquarists have been making their own macro nutrient fertilizers for many years. Macros are the nutrients that plants need in large amounts. These include Nitrogen, Potassium, and Phosphate. Rather than purchase a premade mix, many purchase the individual dry salts and create their own custom blend.
In addition to macronutrients, plants also need micronutrients. These are nutrients that are required in very small or “trace” amounts. Until a few years ago, there were not many choices when it came to micronutrients. This has slowly been changing and there is new trend that has emerged: rather than purchasing premade mixes, many are now creating their own custom blend of DIY (Do It Yourself) micronutrients.
I first became aware of custom micros from my good friend Joe Harvey (2017 AGA Dutch 1st place). Joe and I have shared ideas on how we manage our planted tanks for many years. He explained that he had purchased the ingredients and was making his own custom micro mix. He asked if I wanted to go down this road with him. I am always looking for new ways to improve my tank and gladly said yes.
Why would someone want to create their own micronutrients?
Until recently, there have been limited options when it comes to micronutrients. You could purchase a premixed liquid solution, or you could purchase a dry mix like CSM + B. With larger tanks liquid solutions are not cost effective, and dry salts like CSM+B were not developed with the aquarium hobby in mind. It can have real issues with consistency when dosing in small amounts. With either you can’t change or adjust the ratios or the ingredients that they put into their formulas. When you make your own, you can custom tailor a solution to your own needs and be assured that the amount of every nutrient is the same in every dose.
As an example, let’s start with iron. There are several types of iron commonly found in micro mixes. These include Ferrous Gluconate, EDTA, and DTPA. They all have different chelating agents and work best at different pH levels.
Ferrous Gluconate is the easiest for plants to uptake and works best in low pH environments. It also has the weakest chelate, so it only remains available to plants for a short time. It is absorbed rapidly, like in hours. As you add stronger chelating agents, the iron is more stable and is released more slowly. For instance EDTA has a stronger chelate and will be available or a longer period of time. However keep in mind that it is most available at lower pH levels (below 6.5). DTPA has the strongest chelating agent and is best for tanks with a higher pH (6.5 to 8 pH). Many people don’t understand that the mix they purchase may not be providing the most effective source of iron for their tanks.
Other advantages of custom micronutrients are that they provide a lower average cost over time, the ability to customize the formula, and the confidence that each dose is consistent. And that consistency is one of the keys to success. In my experience, most micronutrients work best in a range. Too much or too little can have a harmful effect on a tank. When we create our own mix, we can be sure that we are always providing our preferred amounts.
What ingredients do you need to make your own custom Micro Nutrient Mix?
The first thing you will need to do is source the ingredients. Most of the components are sold in ½ or 1-pound bags. For most of these items that is enough for a lifetime supply! Remember we are using these to dose very small trace amounts. Here is a typical list of elements that go into a custom micro mix (Note: Some people consider Nickel to be optional). I’ve also listed the weekly ppm that I dose into my own tank. Over the course of many years I have experimented with various levels of each element. I’ve also compared those levels to others I know and respect in the hobby. All in all I have found this a good general starting point for most tanks.
The main component in a micro mix is Iron (Fe). As we discussed above you could use Ferrous Gluconate, EDTA, or DTPA. Which one works best for your tank depends on your tank’s pH level. Personally, I use both DTPA 11% and Ferrous Gluconate in my mix.
In addition to the elements, you will also need the following.
- 1000ml container
- Jeweler type gram scale (Minimum 0.01g accuracy)
- RO or distilled water
- Either distilled white vinegar or potassium sorbate (mold prevention).
When I first sourced everything above my initial investment was about $100.00. That’s lasted me about 5 years now and with many of the elements it is pretty much a lifetime supply. There are also kits you can buy from places like BurrAqua (www.burraqua.com) if you don’t want to source everything yourself.
How do you make your own custom Micro Nutrient mix?
The next step is learning how to calculate how much of each item to add to your customized mix. Keep in mind that you are making a custom solution that is unique to your tank. The good news is it’s much easier than you think. There are planted tank calculators available that make the process very simple. You can use either RotalaButterfly (Rotala Butterfly | Planted Aquarium Calculators & Information) or the Zorfox Planted Tank calculators (Zorfox's Planted Tank Calculator). Once you understand how to use these tools, they will become one of your best friends as you advance in the hobby.
To use the calculators you will need to know your actual water volume, your container size (1000ml), the size of the dose you prefer, and how many ppm of each item you want to provide per dose. For instance in my tank my actual tank water volume is 105 gallons. I am using a 1000ml container for my solution. I dose 20ml of solution into my tank daily.
Let’s start with iron. I would like to dose 0.40 ppm of iron weekly, so that means I need to dose 0.0571 daily. When I enter these numbers into one of the calculators it will calculate that I need to add 10.32 gm of DTPA 11% to my 1000ml solution to provide 0.0571 ppm iron per 20 ml dose. Once you understand how to perform that calculation it’s easy to calculate the rest of the elements.
Here's how that calculation looks on Rotala Butterfly.
Here’s the actual recipe for my custom solution.
Once you have added the elements to the solution it’s a good idea to add a mold inhibitor. I use either 20 ml of distilled white vinegar or 0.4 gram potassium sorbate added to a 1,000ml container. I also recommend storing the container in a dark area like a closet, so it’s not subjected to sunlight.
How do I measure such small quantities of Cu, Mo, and Ni?
This is a question that comes up often. These three elements are needed in miniscule amounts. It is very difficult to measure these tiny amounts like 0.01 grams of Nickel accurately and consistently.
That is why I recommend creating a separate second 1000ml solution for these three minerals. You’re essentially making a super-concentrated solution of these three minerals instead of measuring teeny tiny amounts of powder. You then add some of the super concentrated solution to the primary solution (serial dilution). This will make your dosing more accurate and consistent.
Once you make your secondary solution, you add a little of the secondary solution to raise the ppm to the targets in our primary solution. It also saves a lot of time each time you need to make a new batch of micros. No more struggling to measure very small amounts of powder.
How do I make a secondary solution?
If you make a secondary solution, you will need two 1000ml containers.
The primary solution will contain Fe, B, Zn, and Mn.
The secondary solution wil contain Cu, Mo, and Ni.
In my case, I create my secondary solution and then add 60ml of it back to my primary solution.
My primary solution is enough for 50 days of dosing. But the 1000 ml of secondary solution will last for 800 days!
It’s a bit more work up front but saves lots of time in the long run. It also helps to make sure your mix is consistent and accurate.
I’ve been making my own custom micros for years now. I can tell you that once you have purchased everything and made the calculations it takes me less than 5 minutes to make a new batch. If you look at the effort and time we spend creating our underwater gardens, in my opinion making your own DIY micronutrients is relatively easy and well worth the effort.
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