Welcome to ScapeCrunch

We are ScapeCrunch, the place where planted aquarium hobbyists come to build relationships and support each other. When you're tired of doom scrolling, you've found your home here.

Social Feed

Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
Last reply · posted in Tank of the Month Forum
AGA Final Shot.JPG

We are kicking of 2024 with a return of our Tank of the Month series! January 2024's Tank of the Month is @Unexpected's second-place finishing "The Second Hand of Carew", a beautiful Dutch aquascape! Please see the winning work at the AGA 2023 Aquascaping Contest - The Second Hand of Carew.

Introduction​

My name is Michael Miller, and I was born in Lakeland, Florida. I guess this is where my aquarium journey began because I have memories of riding my bike down to our local ice-cream shop located in a small strip mall. Next-door was an aquarium store, mostly salt water, but it was enough to catch my interest and I would spend a lot of time there just daydreaming about having a saltwater aquarium. I’m sure I nagged my mother for some time before she finally gave in and let me buy an aquarium. I still remember getting a 20 long tank home on my Schwinn bicycle.

In 1989, we moved to Tampa, Florida and my parents built a new home in Tampa Palms. They let me design my room and I asked for a wall cabinet that was strong enough to hold aquariums. I used my allowance money on a 55 gallon and set up my first saltwater tank. Next to it was that old 20 long I used for freshwater. I can’t remember what fish I had, but I did add some Anubis and Banana Plants and had decent success with both tanks and was able to maintain them until it was time to go off to college. I gave everything to my best friend who to this day keeps freshwater tanks. What’s amazing to me, he still has the Anubia from my 20 gallon. That sucker is nearly 30 years old, just crazy!

Now the important part, my buddy Chris also caught the bug when I gave Brian my tanks, and for decades kept freshwater tanks. I was living in Denver at the time, but visited my parents and my wife and I stopped by Chris’s house. Holy cow, he had a Black Water tank worthy of a magazine slot. I was immediately addicted to the look and said to my wife, “we are getting a tank like this.” My wife is awesome, and the second leg of this journey began. I failed at black water, but I added some easy plants and it was obvious where the tank was going to go. I had a problem though, why is my pH so high? How do I lower pH? The internet kept telling me not to chase pH, but I wanted too anyways. Why is the internet not wanting me to learn how to achieve the numbers I want? This is when I found the Holy Grail, Gregg Zydeck! I consider myself fortunate, I was able to read his journal several times before the “Great Purge” and everything came full circle. I now know how to set these numbers and learned so much from him and his journal. My AGA entry was never possible without him.

I’m sorry for the rambling, but as I’m sitting here typing, I’m realizing just how fun this journey is/was. How all these little things came together to get me here today. Cool stuff really and I’m proud to play a small part in a niche group. It’s super cool!

System Profile​

  1. Display Tank: Innovative Marine Nuvo SR Pro2 120
  2. Lower Iron Glass
  3. APS Stand
  4. AIO (All in One aquarium)
  5. CO2 via a 10lb tank and Alan Le (@Alanle) regulator with flow meter passing through a Yugang Reactor
  6. 10 times turnover flow rate (might be a bit over 10x)
  7. 3x MightyJet 538GPH DC pumps with controller (each pump has split adjustable nozzles) and the return filters the water through 2x 14 inch 200 micron sucks
  8. 3x WeekAqua P600’s on a DIY black steel hanging rack
  9. Dosing is Estimative Index and Joe Harvey (@Burr740) Micro’s (tank is kept at 30,10,40 and .45ish Fe as proxy
  10. ATO is a 5 gallon Aqueon tank controlled by a tank controller
  11. Recent change to BRS 300watt heaters on an Ink Bird controller on my tank controller for redundancy
  12. CoralVue tank controller

Angle.jpg​

Water flow and circulation​

My goal here is to have good turnover while not blasting the plants and fish. The nozzles allow this high turnover yet to divide the flow evenly throughout the tank. My plants have visible sway like a soft coral saltwater tank but a bit less. Fish are comfortable and do not work hard to swim around the tank. The nozzles are aimed towards the surface for agitation and bounce off walls to reach the lower areas.

Water Parameters (Macro’s front loaded)​

  1. Temperature 74.7 to 75.5
  2. PH 6.2/6.4 to 5.15(under CO2 load)
  3. NO3 30ppm
  4. PO4 10ppm
  5. K 40ppm
  6. Fe .45is as proxy Joe Harvey (@Burr740) Micro’s
  7. RO/DI water mineralized to 24ppm Ca and 8ppm Mg and .6dKH (I’ve recently had to add some KH as my pH was reaching 4.4 and the fish were not happy that low (strange mystery after changing the plants out)
  8. TDS 166

Dosing​

I pretty much immolate Gregg’s (@GreggZ) dosing and see how it affects the tank. Having followed his dosing for several years now, I can now see the subtle changes the plants go through. I’ve now settled on the 30,10,40 as the plants seem fuller and healthier. They also grow faster in this soup. This is something I need to see so I can learn the recovery rates from trimming. I need to be able to time plant recovery to have them all at peak for the final shot. As for micro’s, this rabbit hole I leave for Joe Harvey as I’m not willing to make the jump!

image_50426625.jpg

Substrate​

Ace Hardware Pool Filter Sand (hey, it’s cheap). At some point I want to try BDBS (also Cheap). I do not use root tabs. When I tried them in the past, it was a disaster and as such, will never use them (I’m open to try them for difficult plants, but I don’t like fooling around with difficult plants so...)

Aquascaping Style and Objectives​

Well, it’s Dutch. For whatever reason my brain has an affinity for the look. I love all the styles and amazed at what people can do, but for me, Dutch is home. My goal is to try and reproduce that classic Dutch look but going forward, I’d like to try and bend the rules but maintain the classic look. We will see if I can pull this off next year. My strategy is simple, get the plants in and get them growing. I use too many at first just to see if they like the soup I'm serving, then eliminate those that aren’t doing well. I will then study how they grow and try trimming them in different ways. Can I get this plant round, does this one grow up or out, does this one grow straight or want to fall over? Each plant is a puzzle piece that has a place in the bigger picture. I must find those places while maintaining interesting contrast. Here’s the challenge, contrast of color while maintaining leaf shape differences. It’s not easy for me with such a limited plant selection. I don’t have access to a specialized plant store like some have. Once I have the pieces together, I start learning trim times. Do I trim or top and replant? After memorizing the times, I then let the tank come to peak and start looking at shadows. Are they interesting? Is there enough, is there too much? I feel that every great tank is great by the shadows the scape creates. One last trim, a return to peak and the photo is then taken.

Lighting​

I chose WA mostly on power to price point. They push a lot of PAR and the colors look good enough while being on the cheaper side. I wish I had gone with the 900 size but I thought the 600 size would cover the tank. It didn’t though so I added a third. I haven’t tested PAR with a proper device, but using an app on my phone, my current PAR was 160 at the substrate. I’ve since reduced this to about 100. This was the right move as the tank was struggling and I’m seeing a big improvement after the change.

Filtration​

I use Marine Pure bio balls and Seachem Matrix. I just purchased some 30ppi sponge and will be adding a ton of it. I’ve had a lot of problems recently and I’m beginning to wonder if I’m lacking in this area. A lot of cloudy water any time I rinse my media so I’m adding more just in case this is a problem. My fish are growing, and I have a high bio load.

Original no crop or edit.jpg

Maintenance​

I clean the filter socks weekly and do a 70 gallon water change. I will wipe the glass down if it needs it both inside and outside. I don’t get mulm in this tank, but I do wave my hand around below and around the plants just to lift particles up into the water column before draining the tank. The tank is about 120 gallons (about 454.25 L) empty, and I figure it’s around 85 gallons with sand and equipment.

Inhabitants​

I’ll refer you over to the AGA site with this information. It’s too much honestly and lost points for sure.
  • 11 Melanotaenia Praecox
  • 14 Trigonostigma Heteromorpha
  • 15 Rasbora Einthovenii
  • 9 Otocinclus sp.
  • 3 Melanotaenia Kamaka
  • 3 Melanotaenia boesemani
  • 9 Corydoras sp. CW010
  • 2 Melanotaenia Trifasciata
  • 10 Hyphessobrycon Pulchripinnis
  • 9 Hyphessobrycon Amandae
  • Assortment of Bladder Snails
Note: Rainbows love eating Cherry Shrimp!

Regrets with stocking​

For sure I have way too many fish for a true Dutch tank. At the end of the day, this is our home tank for my wife and I to enjoy. She loves larger fish and I love smaller fish hence we have both. Going forward, as fish age and fall off, I might move towards minimal fish in a school to meet Dutch rules but for now, these are points I will lose.

image_50396417.jpg

What Do I love most about this Hobby?​

I love being in a small group of people worldwide doing things with aquariums few expect to see when I ask them if they would like to see my tank. I think this is just so cool. It’s an instant conversation starter and just watching them study the tank while asking questions just makes my day. The most asked question, “Is this real.” I just love this question. I also love my pets; I talk to them and worry about them unnecessarily.

Who was responsible for getting me into the hobby?​

For sure the fish store next to my favorite Ice-cream shop. But Chris for getting me back into aquariums.

Who inspires me the most?​

That’s easy, Gregg Zydeck (@GreggZ). I’m a fan boy if you can’t tell. When I saw his tank for the first time, I was like, “wow”. And I still say wow when I see his updates.

image_50740737.jpg

What is my dream tank?​

Hmm, probably a wider tank but around 150 gallons. Maybe some Euro Bracing and a sump.

What is the biggest challenge with this tank?​

Great question, getting visual depth in just 18.2 inches and planting with just 14 inches of height.

What is the most valuable piece of equipment used with this setup?​

That would be my CoralVue tank monitor. I love it. Having an eye on the tank sounding alarms when problems arise is well worth the money spent. Overkill, probably, but worth it in my opinion.

Any future plans with this tank?​

I’m working on the 2024 AGA now. I’ll keep at it until I win it!

Any special tips or advice to share with others?​

This is mostly for newer people in the hobby. But chase numbers. You here so much not to chase them, but eventually you learn to set those numbers and what those numbers mean. This leads to relaxing over those numbers. Hope that makes sense. Also, be careful where you get your information from. There’s a whole lot of bad information out there. Find a tank you love and try to immolate what they do. Try to make sense of what they are doing and if you don’t understand something they say, study it so you do. This will shorten your learning curve by quite a bit. This is how I’ve been successful so far.

image_50433025.jpg

Closing thoughts​

Sadly, I was quick to change the tank to start getting ready for 2024 so I don’t have more pictures of the tank. I’ve added a few shots just before the final photo so It will look different than the final photo. I’ll also show you the guts of the system and the reactor design. I will warn you; I don’t follow NBAT rules for these other areas. It looks like a disaster zone. But also, tearing the tank down plant wise was a disaster. I’ve been fighting a GDA problem for months now so don’t do this if you have a stable tank with high plant mass. Hopefully, you will get a chuckle of how bad the below tank looks.

new tank.jpg

Black and White.jpg
17 Replies · 4402 views
artandsoul
Last reply · posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)
Got on the tree build kick in past 2 weeks to make somthing I like for 36g freebie build to replace the huge tree turd #2 in there. I got 6 stumps ready today to get built for smaller tanks, 3 done today 3 waiting. Built the larger 17 tall 16 wide tree pics added other day to journal but gonna a build 2-3 more larger trees and the 6 smaller. Sell the ones off on eBay and etsy I don't want.
The larger stump 2nd post pic s 16" tall 15 wide plan to use in future scapes smaller. I've been using Amazon branch packs 15.00 for 25-35 pieces and amazon spiderwood 6-8" 5 for 12.00 for small trees. The large tree I made was a 10.99 piece I tore apart and used the 3 larger branches and built onto them to get the large tree in added pics cost me in end around 22.00 .... I have 10 pieces coming in mail Friday 5 large and 5 medium all spiderwood to make larger trees with this weekend.
Bought a ton of Amazon wood on Amazon lol 2 for 17.00 10-14" so I glued some of them together for larger usable pieces. some came out cool and well worth the 17.00 for the pieces glued together.The 1 has natural plant pots on top. The v shape last 2 pics 12" deep and 16" wide
After literally glueing a finger to a rock today Imao I quit! I ended up used all the accelerator I had anyway so Friday or sat before I can finish my smaller trees. will update as it goes, It will be a forest of trees when its done.
13 Replies · 293 views
  • Like
Reactions: Burr740
BenB
Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Specific Plant Discussions
I mention this plant on occasion, but no one ever comments. So I thought I'd make a post for others and me for future reference.
It is my favorite Erio. It is a darker green, doesn't get too big, and for me it has never sent up any seed stalks.

I find it easy to grow. I have high light but nothing crazy at 124PAR and high CO2, 50+ppm. It gets about max 3-4" and makes side daughter plants when large. I'm not sure my dosing scheme is. Sort of an EI daily dosing kind of thing.

What gets me is every autumn, it starts to melt. I'm not sure how it knows it's autumn with consistent light and a heater, but it must get a little cooler in the tank or something. The plant starts to turn brown and sends up (I'm not sure of the correct term) vegetative stalks with little plantlets on the ends. I've found you can plant these stalks into the substrate with the plantlet on top, and it will grow into a new plant. They've been easy to grow. This is the third year this has happened to me.
Pic of plantlets below. I'll try to get a better one sometime. All I had time for tonight was a crappy phone pic.

This year I divided one of the mother plants in hopes that it wouldn't fully melt and would regrow. That is still in progress.

Anyone else's experiences are welcome.

DSC09694a.webp

This plant is the same plant as the one on the right above.
20261006_182513a.webp
9 Replies · 307 views
MrJG
Supporting I Donated 2026
Last reply · posted in Journals

Journal  MrJG - UNS 90L

@Sb1415 Apologies I totally snagged the format of your journal post for this so thank you!

Many moons ago I was an active and contributing member on plantedtank.net, I think at one point I had around 14 scaped tanks going before burnout and life changes. Instead of weekends consisting of maintenance I transitioned to camping/boating and life has been great. I’ve always missed it. After downsizing and making a move to a new home I kept only a small 12x12 cube tank that started life as an amateur iwagumi layout, Seiryu and hairgrass only. I put it on the nightstand beside my bed and added some of my favorite Anubias and crypts from taken down tanks. Its been sitting there running for 5-6 years now, low light, top offs only w tap. Maintenance when it got out of control. Super old aquasoil now flattened out to a thick 4-5 inch thick layer in a perfect line front to back.

In Aug/Sept 25 had a bit of a health issue that kept me in bed for several weeks recovering while I looked at this sad little cube, mostly healthy but not truly thriving. No fertilizer being added for years, GDA covered anubias leaves that also were many years old and I thought to myself I should make this better… that was the tipping point. OK I’ll do a deep clean on the substrate, get some stems to throw in there, maybe get a carpet going. Tissue cultures/stems ordered and I got to work. No more top offs, 10% water changes instead. TDS ~900 when I started. Ultimately everything melted back and didn’t grow well. I’d been keeping the lighting so dim all these years to maintain just the crypts/epiphytes without it turning into a mess and I was ok with it again. That was the spark.

IMG_6663.webp

I decided I wanted to build out a new tank, most of my old hardware/tanks I had let go of in a bulk way so I was going to have to start new with everything sans some 5 gallon buckets of Amazonia that I’d placed in the basement of the new house.. Phoenix rising from the ashes? Most likely more like algae emerging from the depths. I still consider myself a beginner and maybe amateur at best so yeah…

So I got to work again reading, researching, what’s new, what has changed since I’ve been out of the loop for so long? Ooo dark start that sounds much better, in line CO2 diffusers cool! CO2 reactors, pretty awesome sounding, 2Hr aquarist read every article, and I’m back in baby!

Tank inspiration

None really hence no name, it fit right into a slot to occupy my mind from a not so great situation that I was in and I’m ok with that. Ultimately I’d like this to be a low-mid energy tank that can have minimal amounts of weekly maintenance while still looking the part. I’d prefer to keep it as simple as possible while still having some high tech bits. Get all the equipment out of the tank, co2, low-mid level lighting, minimal/simple fertilization. I got busy ordering equipment and started brainstorming layouts and what hardscape materials I could find. Instagram was my friend for a while, seems that everything that kept grabbing my attention were island style layouts with a very thin layer of sand surrounding. I’ve also always been partial to big chonky pieces of driftwood, I thought to go the manzanita route but wysiwyg pieces were fetching stupid prices. I ran across this ironwood in a listing and couldn’t let it go. The deep lines in the bark were just calling me so I quick snap ordered it before my brain could process dimensions, I knew it would fit but didn’t fully visualise how much it would ultimately limit the layout. I wanted to stay mostly inert with stone and eventually/begrudgingly ordered the tumbled lava stone with the intention of keeping it to a island/river layout style and mimicking some of my found instagram muse tanks. It will mostly likely end up more nature style although the start will be more Willy Wonka than anything. Thanks @Burr740 for that, I shopped like a kid in a candy store.

Equipment

Tank
  • UNS 90L
  • 90 cm x 30 cm x 30 cm
  • 79 liters or 21 gallons by volume, 62.5 liters or 16.5 gallons actual w hardscape
Filter
  • Oase Thermo 200
  • Replaced the charcoal media with more ceramic from Oase
  • Replaced w Fzone stainless steel -Fzone glass Lily w skimmer ⅝”
  • Replaced tubing with UNS pro tubing ⅝”
  • Fzone Quick release ⅝” so Lily pipes can be cleaned without having to reprime filter
CO2
  • Gla inline atomizer - replaced Fzone Co2 inline diffuser ⅝”
  • GLA dual stage - replaced Fzone pro series dual stage regulator w/ 5lb tank
  • Timed on 3 hours before lights on, off 1 hour before lights off
Water
  • Using distilled by gallon, remineralized with salty shrimp GH targeting GH around 4-5
  • Hoping for 0-1 KH
  • Dark start cycled with prime dechlorinated Tap and APT Start
Substrate
  • 80% old used ADA Amazonia v1, small bits sifted and bagged to create slight slope
  • 2HR Feast topped to around 2 inches
  • UNS Bora sand
  • UNS Kona pebbles
Lighting
  • Fzone Bright 90 - 90CM
  • Before hardscape made rough par map using photone with diffuser iPhone 15 Pro
  • At 100% top 404, mid 219, base 127 PAR
  • At 50% top 190, mid 110, base 62 PAR
  • Will be starting tank with 45-50% lighting intensity
  • Timed at 3pm-9pm photoperiod with 60 minute ramps
  • Current Colorcast LED strip w/frosted background
  • Timed scenes for dawn (orange 1 HR during pre-ramp) /daylight (green during ON cycle) /sunset (red 1 HR during post-ramp) /night (indigo 1 HR after lights out)
Hardscape
  • Arizona Ironwood
  • Black tumbled lava stone
Ferts
  • APT 1 and 3 dosed at recommended levels per calculator
  • APT Jazz - in 3-4 months as Feast gives out
  • Trying to keep it simple with fertilization to start
Current status, ending dark start, overcast next few days so removed the cardboard surround last night. Took today off work and anxiously awaiting a fed ex delivery with a big box o plants. Here it is in “night” scene mode.

IMG_6920.webp
53 Replies · 5599 views
artandsoul
Last reply · posted in Specific Plant Discussions
Ludwigia repens, hairgrass "eleocharis palustris" and ludwigia glandulosa all found locally growing emersed beside water and all growing submerged in water. Nice freebys if they survive the transition theres 20,000 stems in this tiny little pond. all clean no bugs put in tank with no fish to be safe will peroxide dip it before moving into other tank. 1 bunch l repens last pic I picked 8 days ago grown 2" and top turning more red with no melt at all. Well see how it goes. All found beside my local Lincoln dealer parking lot lol.
I've got local emersed plants before I know where theres a storm of lemon bacopa and anacharis is. Seems it always melted badly to mush. These plants are growing emersed for a week then submersed for days when water levels go up. Maybe they are more hardy being grown above and below water over and over? They may all melt to turds in weeks lol.
5 Replies · 358 views
Tim Harrison
Last reply · posted in Journals
My new scape. It’s been a while. I’ve been busy finishing my novel. It’s published now so back to scaping.

It’s a classic triangular scape and I’m calling it Quantum Entanglement. It’s a working title, so I might change that. Sorry mods.

The real star is the light. Off Amazon for around $130. Fully controllable with a remote. Great value. https://amzn.eu/d/0eRX5eCo

I want to plant it with mainly buces and small anubias spp. on the rocks and wood and MC carpet, with some crypt nevellii or C. X Willisii, and stauro in the shady parts and maybe a ludwigia mini super red highlight behind the last rock on the left.
22 Replies · 871 views
Art
Art
Staff member I Donated 2026 Founding Member
· posted in Meet & Greet Forum
Welcome to ScapeCrunch, @JohnnyU!
We would love to get to know you. Please tell us about yourself. What tank do you have?
0 Replies · 9 views
GreggZ
Staff member Supporting Founding Member Expert in Residence MOTM Winner Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Journals
As some people may know I had a long running journal on another forum. Glad to see Art get this new site started. A fresh beginning and loads of possibilities ahead. I'll be updating with thoughts here but for today just wanted to share my latest tank pics.


20221029_170328.jpg20221029_170344.jpg20221029_170347.jpg20221029_170349.jpg20221029_170353.jpg20221029_170355.jpg20221029_170357.jpg20221029_170402.jpg20221029_170430.jpg
358 Replies · 64812 views
HardeeParty
Rockstar
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
Since the tanks have been in such a state of disarray, I’ve been focusing on moving everything to emersed until life sorts itself out.

How I transition from submersed to emersed depends on the growth form of the plant.

Plants that are primarily basal form (not stems) go in square nursery pots with one of two substrates. First choice is long fiber sphagnum (dried and then rehydrated) topped with aquasoil, straight aquasoil, or a mix of peat moss/perlite/coco coir/aquasoil. The sphagnum wicks better than aquasoil. Alternatively, I use straight aquasoil, I line the bottom of the pots with a coffee filter to keep the substrate from falling through. Both work equally well. The bin needs to be filled with a little more water than if dried sphagnum is used which is why the first method is preferable.

The nursery pots are kept in a clear plastic container. Sterilite are the typical go-to, but I actually prefer the tall clear shoe boxes from Walmart. They have built in ventilation holes which is handy because I need to drill holes in the sides of any other container near the lid rim. Ventilation is key.

The shoe boxes are cheap too. I fill the bins as much as possible but a little leftover space is okay.

After filling the bins with pots, I fill all the voids with live sphagnum and fill with enough distilled water to saturate the sphagnum. The sphagnum has antimicrobial properties (so I’ve read, and it seems to check out in practice). This keeps the water from developing algae almost entirely. I dress the tops with live sphagnum too if something needs a little help rooting. Depending on the space, I throw rhizome plants right into the sphagnum as well. They develop excellent root systems and are very easily removed and cleaned when needed compared to conventional soil.

I fertilize everything with a foliar spray of Maxsea 16-16-16 diluted to 1 teaspoon per gallon. It’s a kelp based fertilizer with micronutrients. I highly recommend it.

IMG_3548.webp

IMG_3549.webp

IMG_3550.webp

IMG_3556.webp

IMG_3552.webp


I’ll follow up with emersed stem plant propogation and other methods for the full greenhouse.
17 Replies · 929 views
Mr. Silly Goose
I Donated 2026
Last reply · posted in Journals
Inspiration, Goals, & Considerations

I've had an interest in aquariums since a young age and had my own aquarium with fish like Angelfish and Mollies around middle school. Growing up, my dad had a bigger tank with Blood Parrots and Silver Dollars. Over 10 years ago, I had a low maintenance 55 gallon planted tank. I was pretty proud of it, but always envied the high tech tanks I saw on forums/social media and told myself when I broke that tank down that the next time I set up a tank, it would be like what I envied. At the end of 2024, I set up a small low tech 5 gallon planted tank to help scratch my aquarium itch, which really only reaccelerated my desire for setting up a high tech tank. And now, here we are!

The size of the tank was mostly dictated by the space. I originally planned on something around 30 gallons, but my LFS had the UNS 75P in stock and after measuring and discussing with my wife, we agreed it would work for the space. The tank is between the kitchen and living room, which is essentially a play area for my son, so lighting needs to be adjusted to make sure he's not blinded by the light when looking up at the tank.

Generally, I'd like to have a visually pleasing aquarium with lots of fish and plants that's peaceful to enjoy. I'd like to automate / reduce as much friction as possible and I realize there's still plenty I need to learn, so I'll need to have patience when things go wrong. I want to keep away from anything that's hard to get out of the tank once it's in (duckweed, moss, pest snails, etc). I felt like sharing prices below might give value to anyone in the future that's looking to start where I did with a high tech tank.

Specs (prices include sales tax)
Tank:

UNS 75P (8mm Glass - 29.52" x 17.71" x 17.71") - $519​
Lid - Working on getting a custom lid made​

Lighting:
Chihiros WRGB II Pro 60 - $263
Chihiros WRGB II Pro Shades- $40
3D Printed Side Shades - Still need to do this
Chihiros Hanging Rope Kit- $37
Chihiros LED Lights Hanging Stand Kit - $64​
The mounting screws provided protruded beyond the bracket and would not fit with the backlight. I ended up getting washers and placing them outside the bracket to limit the screw depth.​
Really disliked the fact that the stand was branded with Chihiros and visible when looking into the aquarium.​
​

Filtration:
Oase: 60 ppi prefilter, 2x 30 ppi, _x 20 ppi - $56 (spares)​
Oase tubing - Included with filter​

Co2:
Misc. 10lb Cylinder - $118 (includes CO2)​
CO2 Art PRO-SE Regulator - $105​
Aqua Rocks Colorado Small Yugang Reactor 19mm w/ 90 degree elbows - $150​

Inflow & Outflow Pipes:
Aqua Rocks Colorado Lily Pipe Clipper - $11​

Substrate & Hardscape:
UNS Controsoil - Black, 'normal' used as a base and ‘fine’ on top - ~$129​
CaribSea Super Naturals- Jungle River Sand (foreground sand) - $42 (only used a small mount of the bag - will user remainder in upcoming tank)​
UNS Controsand Santa Fe (used as accent around dragon stone) - $57 (only used a small mount of the bag - will user remainder in upcoming tank)​
UNS Controsand Sequoia (used as accent around dragon stone) - $52 (only used a small mount of the bag - will user remainder in upcoming tank)​
I was surprised how dirty these rocks were and how much rinsing was required. For the price point, I felt like they should have come pre-washed.​
Driftwood & Dragon Stone from Aquarium Co-Op - $111​

Fertilization:
Burr Aqua Micros and Macros​
​
Battery Backup & Power
EcoFlow DELTA 3 Max (2kwh) - $680​
Unfortunately prolonged power outages are not uncommon for us. We've been without power for multiple consecutive days, 7 days being the longest. This battery backup gives me some peace of mind knowing the tank can run for some time uninterrupted giving me the flexibility to get the generator out and running at a later time, refill with gas, etc. I believe run time will be around 12 hours.​

Other Misc Equipment:
Chihiros CO2 Drop Checker
5 x Oase ShutOff Valve 16/22
Inkbird WiFi ITC-308 - $38
SwitchBot Leak Detectors - $15 each

"Stand"
Because the guts are located in a kitchen cabinet, I didn't want to screw directly into it and damage it. I was also concerned silicone would not be able to dry and outgas properly when sealing the edges. I opted to line the cabinet with contact paper. It's essentially a giant sticker, so I lined the sides, bottoms, and a second layer over the bottom edges/joints. I built a 3 panel "stand" inside of the cabinet so I could house everything and screw into the plywood without any concerns. I used 1 sheet of 3/4" Maple plywood and coated 1 side with a latex primer followed by a layer of latex white paint. This is mostly for water resistance and not necessarily water proof. I placed a silicone cabinet liner under the right side equipment. I made a shelf to place the EcoFlow on so if there's a catastrophic leak it's off the bottom.

One consideration I hadn't thought about was how "cramped" the cabinet would be since I placed the EcoFlow on a shelf with a "wall", which essentially made the work area much tighter.

Cable Management: Raceway and cable clips
Water
Express Water RO5DX - $160
I saw this recommended by @Naturescapes_Rocco, and feel like the value is pretty hard to beat. I waited until it was on sale to purchase, but even at the $190 list price, it's great. Water source is an artesian spring (well). From the tap, TDS measures 56. In my 5g, I've used water straight from the tap, but opted for RO so I can keep things consistent with this setup. TDS after initial filter flushing was 0 (yeah, 0!).​
55 Gallon Brute Trash Can, 44 Gallon Brute Trash Can, 32 Gallon Greenmade Trash Can, and 2x dollys.
I need to improve this setup because it's a PITA. RO goes into the 55g, then I need to transfer it to the 44g to fill the tank. The 32g was originally what I purchased because that was the biggest Costco had, but it didn't hold enough water to fill the tank, so I had to rethink my plans. Seeing the 55g in person, I wasn't confident I could fit 2 side by side in the space I set up the RO in (which I couldn't). This setup is very clunky and requires a lot of water moving to make it to the tank. I've been using the 32g for waste water so I could water plants with it, but I might get worn down quickly and send it down the drain.​
​
Plants (all UNS TC)
  • Homalomena Sp Sekadau South (babysitter)
  • Hydrocotyle Tripartita (potentially babysitter)
  • Alternanthera Reineckii Rosanervig (initially planned as babysitter, but may keep some in long term)
  • Hemianthus Callitrichoides 'Cuba'
  • Rotala Rotundifolia Blood Red
  • Anubias Nana Petite
  • Micranthemum 'Monte Carlo'
  • Alternanthera Reineckii 'Mini'
  • Echinodorus Rose
Livestock:

Coming soon

  • 25x Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbow
  • 7x C005 Corydoras pantanalensis
  • 3x C123 Yellow Cory 'Rio Nanay'
  • Aphyosemion bivittatum 'Funge' Pair
  • 5x Stiphodon rutilaureus Goby
  • 1x True Siamese Algae Eaters
  • 1x Bamboo Shrimp
  • 8x Amano Shrimp
97 Replies · 8278 views
Naturescapes_Rocco
Supporting I Donated 2026 Rockstar Article Contributor
Last reply · posted in Planted Aquarium Discussion
See this post regarding AR Mini trimming/planting, and this post regarding Cyperus helferi trimming and planting!

I have hardly seen this subject talked about enough, but I think that it's one of the biggest reasons contributing to beginner's algae-filled downfalls! If you're buying plants from big stores like Aquarium Plants Factory (really good btw), Buceplant, etc. 90% of the plants you are receiving are terrestrially-grown.

Here's an important fact about terrestrially-grown aquarium plants

100% of all terrestrial leaves, when submerged under water, for any plant, will eventually get algae and die.
Some can take a while (anubias, java fern, cyperus helferi), while others will either melt (Crypts) or quickly get algae (AR Mini, Staurogyne repens, stem plants, etc)

But what about buying submerged-growth plants? From hobbyists, or BurrAqua, for example?

There is still a chance that your tank's conditions are different enough that many, if not most leaves you plant, will melt/die/attract algae.

How do we fix this? By leaving only enough leaves for the plant to continue to absorb light and put out new growth. Usually the top 4-6 leaves for stem plants.

1786937485251.webp

It's a lot of work up front, but you will MAJORLY reduce the amount of waste, DOC 's, and algae-inducing scenarios if you trim your plants before planting.

I've done this in ALL of my tanks in the last 4 years with great success.

The easiest way to do this is with stainless squeeze scissors over your sink:
1786937752576.webp
Here's the ones I recommend.

Yes, it takes a ton of patience. But if it could make a big difference in preventing the 2-3 month algae bloom in your tank, would you do it?


Here are some specific plant examples:​

For most true stem plants, I like to leave 3-4" of stem, trimming roots if necessary, and leaving only 4-6 of the freshest leaves. More than that, they will eventually be algae magnets. Less than that (like 2 leaves only) they might not survive the shock.

1786937664009.webp
Lysimachia nummularia 'Aurea', only a few top leaves left, 3" of stem.

1786937955613.webp
Hygrophila corymbosa. Note how I left the leaf nodes on the stem? That's where roots will grow from. Almost all stem plants need nodes to grow roots, even if you've removed the leaves from them.


1786938009235.webp
Terrestrially-grown AR 'Mini' from APF. See how I did the same in this thread for my previous tanks.


1786938082744.webp
This Anubias barteri var. coffeefolia was grown terrestrially (often called 'emersed' or emergent) in a greenhouse. I removed all but the newest 3 leaves, and trimmed the roots too. Terrestrial roots are quite different from submerged with certain plants.


1786938248454.webp
Almost ALL Cryptocoryne species are grown terrestrially. These plants grow as a Rosette, where the inner-most leaves on the "stem" are the freshest, and the outer-most are the oldest. I removed a TON of old terrestrial leaves, leaving just enough for the plant to be able to grow new submerged leaves in my tank as quickly as possible, while leaving as few algae-attracting terrestrial leaves as possible. I also trimmed the roots, which were 5" long upon receiving the plant.


1786938372325.webp
Lobelia cardinalis 'mini'
1786938398546.webp
Penthorum sedoides
. Would also look very similar for Staurogyne repens, too.


Did you know that Blyxa japonica is actually a stem plant? It looks like a rosette, but it's actually a squat, wide stem plant. The lowest/outermost leaves are the oldest, and even though this is a true aquatic plant with no terrestrial form in nature, I know that it likes to throw a fit and melt a good portion of it's oldest leaves when transitioning to my tank's conditions. Here's what it looked like when I received it from @Burr740:
1786938548455.webp
1786938557694.webp
Nice and trimmed up. Less problematic at the 1-2 month mark in the tank's development, I know it!

What about delicate/feather plants?
They're super annoying to prep. I still only keep the top 3-4" max.

1786938618138.webp
With Myriophyllum mattogrossense 'Golden', I only keep a few inches and still try to remove some of the lower leaves that would otherwise just rot by being buried in my inert sand.


1786938680672.webp
What about Myriophyllum sp. "Roraima"? F*ck that. Nightmare to trim lower leaves, just trim it to 3" (not pictured) and discard the bottom when planting.

Curious what you guys think! I know I could receive plenty of "I've never done this, my tank has been fine" but I'd recommend trying it first before having a strong opinion of it ;)

By the way, all plants pictured were actually used in my upcoming 120cm Showcase tank:
1786938890186.webp
19 Replies · 1354 views
Back
Top