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Wisdom learned through experience (or pain!) - please add your contribution

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Art

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So I've been at this hobby for a long time and have learned a lot, mostly through costly trial and error. In an effort to share some of what I've learned and, hopefully, save someone else from similar pain, here's a list of some of my wisdom.

Please add your contributions and let's keep this thread going for posterity!

1. Filter all your decisions through the lens of, "What would my plants and fish want me to do?"

Giving credit to this one to my saltwater friends. What it means is to stop using the "I" in your decisions and really focus on what the plants and fish would want you to do. We are stewards of living, breathing things in our aquariums. This puts a level of responsibility that should be focused on them, what you are caring for, and not on you, exclusively.

Here's an example:

Me: Eh, I'm tired and the game is coming on soon. I'll just leave the water change for next weekend.
My plants and fish: NOOOOOO!!!!
 
2. A simple setup in some case will probably be better than a complex and advanced one

I learned this the hard way, we tend to want to do everything, high tech plants, CO2, very advanced canister filter, light with a mobile app to control when it goes on/off, sunset, sunrise .... etc. all of these are very nice to have but they will require a lot of attention and a good portion of your time will go in maintenance, having a very advanced tank with all of these devices and gadgets doesn't mean that you will stop the maintenance and in several cases having a simple setup will require faster maintenance on the long run, if you have a low tech tank with a sponge filter while you are doing regular weekly maintenance and water change will be much better than a high tech tank with a canister filter that you neglect for months assuming that everything will be working fine without issues
 
This was my response to a question on a forum asking for "Pro Tips". It was written quite a few years ago but I think holds up pretty well. All based solely on my personal experience over many years..............................................

For some reason this topic reminded of the song “Everybody’s free to wear sunscreen”. For those too young to remember it, it contains the answers to most of life’s questions. Don’t know why but while I was compiling this list that tune kept weaving through my thoughts.

So I’m no expert, and still have much to learn, but here are some thoughts from my personal experiences so far. As always, your mileage may vary.

Decide what you want from the tank before you get started. High/Med/Low tech. It should drive every other decision.

Know how much PAR your lights produce, or buy/position lights to produce a particular PAR. PAR level drives every other decision. And both too much and too little light is the root of many problems.

Low tech tanks with low tech plants need VERY, VERY little light.

If your light is medium or high, you will benefit from CO2. In general, High/Med light + no CO2 = algae farm.

Plants need ferts to grow to their fullest. Most problems I see are the result of too little, not too many ferts.

In my experience, high level of ferts does not cause algae.

One point pH drop from CO2 injection is commonly suggested........but more is better. Very high tech 1.2 to 1.4 is common.

Bubbles per second is meaningless.

Excel/Glut is NOT a substitute for CO2. And it provides no benefit at all in a balanced tank.

Don’t use test kits for pH, they are terribly inaccurate. Get a pH meter and learn how to calibrate it. Accurately measure the degassed pH of your water. It is essential to dosing CO2. Take it seriously. Even small swings can make large differences in a high tech tank full of fast growing stems.

EI dosing is a wide guideline and starting point. Your tank may be need more/less of any/every macro or micro nutrient. No shortcut, trial and error is the only way to learn.

None of the successful planted tankers that I follow use EI levels of ferts. It could be more, it could be less, but rarely levels referred to by charts. In fact, sometimes pretty wildly different. You need to find out what works in YOUR tank.

Make an effort to learn how to read your plants. If you pay very close attention, they will let you know if they like what you are providing.......and if they don't. This takes time, experience, and effort. Even subtle changes can effect plant happiness.

Dosing macros and micros on opposite days makes little or no difference. I know many (myself included) who dose micros daily, and personally I front load all macros. Don’t be afraid to experiment.

Learn how to use and buy dry ferts. Liquid ferts are expensive, and rarely have the actual combination of nutrients that are best for your tank.

If you get really serious, roll your own micros. It's easier than you think. CSM+B can be the root cause of many problems.

Take the time to learn either the Zorfox or Rotalabutterfly calculators. Don’t think in tsp/tbs, start thinking in PPM.

Keep logs and records of everything you can think of, and make notes on how plants respond. Without a timeline of changes, you will never understand what causes change in your tank.

Use the journal section here to find tanks that demonstrate success and have goals similar to yours. Read them carefully. And don't be afraid to reach out to those folks. Most here are very generous with their time and knowledge, and are happy to share their experience with you.

Light/CO2/Ferts are often debated. Maintenance is equally or more important. Regular water changes, filter cleanings, gravel vacs, removing dead or decaying plant matter, pruning and controlling plant mass……..in general, uber clean conditions is your best defense against all algae.

Make water changes as easy as possible. I went to an extreme and just flip a switch. Not for everyone, but the easier you make it, the more likely you are to do it, and the more successful your tank will be.

When starting out, more plants is better than less. Many say their tank is heavily planted, but very few are. Very lightly planted tanks are very difficult to get into balance. Load up on plants right from the start.

Once you are successful at growing plants, managing plant mass becomes important. A tank can almost choke itself from letting growth get out of control. Plants enjoy a little elbow room between species.

Get everything else right first (light/CO2/Maintenance) before tweaking ferts. If you don’t, it will have minimal effect. Chasing problems with fert dosing is rarely successful, and only works when everything else is optimized.

Make changes slowly, and only change one parameter at a time. Easy to say, difficult to do. If you keep jumping around with everything, you will never understand the effect of anything.

If you are not serious about regular maintenance, and don’t enjoy getting your elbows wet, don’t go high tech. When you learn how to grow plants, maintenance only becomes more important and you need more of it. Plants growing an inch a day are not a myth. You will be trimming more than you ever imagined.

Think growing plants, not defeating algae. Healthy growing plants are the absolute best defense against algae. In my experience, most algae is the result of poor maintenance, too much (or not enough) light, and too few ferts.

You can't please all the plants all the time. Some will thrive, some will fail. Usually makes no sense. Best to let it go and stick with ones that like the soup that are serving. Trust me, I've banged my head against the wall too many times. Life is easier if you accept that fact.

Don’t shy away from plants that are labeled “difficult”. Some of my “difficult” plants are the easiest, and some of the "easiest" plants are the most difficult for me.

Surface agitation and aeration is your friend. More is better. Your fish and plants will thank you.

Good flow does not mean plants waving around frantically. Think wide gentle flow. And more flow rarely if ever cures anything.

And if you only remember one thing, it’s that “Everybody’s free to perform maintenance”! Trust me on that one.

P.S. Forgot to add that Rainbow Fish are a perfect companion to a planted tank!!
 
That is quite the list and I agree with all. My thoughts probably overlap some of the things already listed above, but have worked for me.

BE PREVENTIVE: being preventive has worked for me. And this is tied mostly to maintenance. As pointed out by Gregg don't skip out on things like water changes (probably impossible to do too much), removal of dead plant leaves, etc. I think many make the mistake of thinking food/poop is the only waste. Dead/damaged leaves are producing waste as well, best to get them out asap. They won 't get better so they are not only visually distracting but will add to the decaying organic load. Its much easier to avoid algae than to get rid of it.

PLANTS ARE KING: As mentioned the more plants the better. I don't think anything comes close to removing toxins/ammonia from the water than plants. If you have a hardscape heavy tank (i.e. iwagumi, etc.) and not many plants then all the maintenance is even more important since you don't have the uptake. Both my tanks currently are hi-tech one has 1/2 the PAR of the other and that one is much harder to keep algae free due to hardscape/thin plant mass.

SKIP THE HEATER: This doesn't seem to be talked about that much. Greg and I have a bit. From my experience your better off at 72-73 than the usual 76-78. I honestly think a good amount of people use a heater unnecessarily. There are exceptions of course with some fish, but some benefits with lower temps are algae control, better cleaner moss growth, slower overall growth (if preferable) and overall more flexibility with lighting/co2. My tanks in NY are both running right now at 69F with no issue for tetras, shrimp even some pea puffers. My temps fluctuate between 68 and 74F.
 
BE PREVENTIVE: being preventive has worked for me. And this is tied mostly to maintenance. As pointed out by Gregg don't skip out on things like water changes (probably impossible to do too much), removal of dead plant leaves, etc. I think many make the mistake of thinking food/poop is the only waste. Dead/damaged leaves are producing waste as well, best to get them out asap. They won 't get better so they are not only visually distracting but will add to the decaying organic load. Its much easier to avoid algae than to get rid of it.

PLANTS ARE KING: As mentioned the more plants the better. I don't think anything comes close to removing toxins/ammonia from the water than plants. If you have a hardscape heavy tank (i.e. iwagumi, etc.) and not many plants then all the maintenance is even more important since you don't have the uptake. Both my tanks currently are hi-tech one has 1/2 the PAR of the other and that one is much harder to keep algae free due to hardscape/thin plant mass.

SKIP THE HEATER: This doesn't seem to be talked about that much. Greg and I have a bit. From my experience your better off at 72-73 than the usual 76-78. I honestly think a good amount of people use a heater unnecessarily. There are exceptions of course with some fish, but some benefits with lower temps are algae control, better cleaner moss growth, slower overall growth (if preferable) and overall more flexibility with lighting/co2. My tanks in NY are both running right now at 69F with no issue for tetras, shrimp even some pea puffers. My temps fluctuate between 68 and 74F.
Well said Jeff.

I need to add a heater comment to my list. Unless a tank is somewhere like a very cold basement, most tanks don't need one. Ambient room temperature is actually better. Tanks are just easier to manage in the low 70's or so. I have not run one in many, many years.

And I might add that fluctuations in temperature are generally no issue either. I pump my RO water up from basement storage which is in the low 60's right into my tank. Fish and plants do great. People forget that in nature temps vary a lot. Even going down a few feet deeper and the water gets colder.
 
Well said Jeff.

I need to add a heater comment to my list. Unless a tank is somewhere like a very cold basement, most tanks don't need one. Ambient room temperature is actually better. Tanks are just easier to manage in the low 70's or so. I have not run one in many, many years.

And I might add that fluctuations in temperature are generally no issue either. I pump my RO water up from basement storage which is in the low 60's right into my tank. Fish and plants do great. People forget that in nature temps vary a lot. Even going down a few feet deeper and the water gets colder.
Interesting add to the heater comment. For a long time I have been using Inkbird temp controllers for heating and cooling. For more than a year now, they are only used when the tank(s) get a little hot (turn on fans). Tank heaters are not used as the house rarely gets colder than 68.
 
Plants take time to go, understand this. You might not see anything going on above the surface but in the root zone there is all kinds of things happening. Be patient.
Do not go cheep in this hobby. It will inventively fail and you will be right back buying it again. Some things like CO2 Regulators, Lights and Aquariums are a few you definitely do not want to skimp out on. If you don't have enough money, save up. Your tank will still be there and growing. Take the time to learn how to grow plants and practice proper cleanliness techniques such as water changes, gravel vacuuming, trimming plants etc.
Do not underestimate the benefits of water changes. They replenish all sorts of nutrients and remove all sorts of things in the water coloumn we don't yet understand.
 
So after reading this I may save the power and not run a heater

Currently my tank is set to 74.5

And I’ve been heating my water change water to 74.5

It’s it safe to stop whenever? This said do you monitor temps ??
 
So after reading this I may save the power and not run a heater

Currently my tank is set to 74.5

And I’ve been heating my water change water to 74.5

It’s it safe to stop whenever? This said do you monitor temps ??
Leave the heater off for a few days and see what the temp goes to. I don't run a heater and my tank is usually just a bit higher than the temp in the house, so about 72* or so. Now if a tank was in a cold basement you might need a heater, but in reality most tanks would do fine without one, and the plants actually do better.

And I do have an Inkbird controller so I am monitoring the temp, but it's only controlling cooling fans not heaters.
 
Leave the heater off for a few days and see what the temp goes to. I don't run a heater and my tank is usually just a bit higher than the temp in the house, so about 72* or so. Now if a tank was in a cold basement you might need a heater, but in reality most tanks would do fine without one, and the plants actually do better.

And I do have an Inkbird controller so I am monitoring the temp, but it's only controlling cooling fans not heaters.
Thank you
My home ranges from 68 at its coldest to 72 at it hottest . The tank is in my living room .
 
Thank you
My home ranges from 68 at its coldest to 72 at it hottest . The tank is in my living room .
Um I live up past Seattle WA where temps year round inside the garage are +-60 degrees F. I do not run heaters except during the winter months. Moss, ferns, anubias and the like go bat crazy with nice green lushes growth over the colder temps.
 
I have :
Panda Cory cats
Neon tetras ( black / gold / standard )
Rainbows ( Boesemani)
1 harlequin rasbora (lol a survivor the rest jumped 6 months ago )
Otto’s
Siamese algae eaters
 

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