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Question of the Day UV Sterilizers - good or bad for planted aquariums?

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Art

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UV sterilizers for planted aquariums
So they have been around for ages and there is no doubt that they do work. I have a hang on one that I will bring out if I ever get a green water outbreak, ich or other issue that I think it can solve. I think many of us have one in our "aquarium stuff" pile.

The question is, should we run them continuously? There is a school of thought out there that thinks this impacts our fertilizers so they shouldn't be used continuously. Any thoughts on this?

How about if you're keeping sensitive fish like our friend @BryceM? Discus are real sensitive to bacteria. Would you run a sterilizer 24/7?

Would love to get your thoughts on this?

P.S., these questions of the day are intended to get us talking to each other. If you see this, please give your 2 cents even if it is "I have no idea". Our community will be better for it.
 
For many years I used to run UV at sterilizing levels on my ponds and goldfish aquariums and never had any problems with ulcers, infections or parasites (common issues with koi and goldies). I felt that it was an essential piece of equipment for good husbandry.
I have a pile of UV fixtures in storage but have been hesitant to use them on my planted tanks because of the possibility of messing up fertilizer uptake, so I would be very interested in a definitive answer to that question! I would install them in a minute if I knew they were safe to do so …
 
Back when my 180g was in full swing I ran one continuously with plants such as Tonina fluviatils, Rotala wallichii and Rotala macrandra. It didn't seem to be a problem from a nutrient viewpoint. I have my own jaded theories about sick fish - and my attitude is mostly fatalistic. In my experience 99% of having healthy fish starts with acquiring healthy fish in the first place. Also, by the time significant diseases are noticeable, most affected fish will eventually succumb to it.

That said, I do think it helps to cut down on disease transmission. All of this is just observational, and not related to any actual data.

Basic fertilizers (NO3, PO4, Ca, K, Mg, B, Cu, Mg) are elements or simple compounds, and won't be affected by UV or any other sort of radiation energy. The only exception might be chelation agents such as EDTA. You can Google this and find information about the degradation of EDTA by UV light. If the EDTA is degraded, iron could theoretically become biologically unavailable to the plants.
 
Bumping this one back up because I don't think we fully explored the concept.

Who is using a UV sterilizer? Would you use one?

And, what benefits can it add to planted aquariums?

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I don't use one regularly as it's affects on chelates is well known, however, I recently had an ich outbreak and used a UV sterilizer along with Ich-X and raising the temperature to knock out the ich...took about a week and I lost few fish (my fault as I think I OD'ed on the Ich-X and/or didn't follow dosing instructions).....so, yeah, definitely a good tool to have on hand for occasional use
 
I don’t have one running in any of my tanks right now, but I have used one temporarily on occasion. I used one last year to help clean out some green water (water changes helped more), and used one on the 125 gallon, before we moved, as a precaution because I had a cichlid that had recovered from HITH.
 
it's affects on chelates is well known
UV sterilizers are assumed to cause photodegredation of chelates like EDTA and release chelated elements, for example Fe. Studies have shown that at the pH we run our tanks, the chelate would be degraded in about 24-32 hours (assuming EDTA and a pH of 6.5).

Is this bad? Fe2 (unchelated ferrous iron) can be taken up by plants. They have an internal mechanism that converts Fe2 into F23 (chelated) for internal transport.

I think the concern is that Fe2 could precipitate out into unavailable states thus creating a nutrient deficiency in the plant.

However, if I dose Fe daily (within the 24 hour window), does it matter that a UV sterilizer may be converting some into an unchelated state?

Also, remember some of it will get into the substrate solution where it will be chelated and made available to the plant roots.

Wouldn't this be a good thing because plants with roots can get this iron versus algae (no roots)?
 
Zero effect on GDA, free floating after glass wipe. When I use it, it's just overnight, not continuous. Maybe it is just snake oil :rolleyes:
Contact time is super important for a UV sterilizer to kill what you're after. Not sure how you ran yours, but mine have been effective for many, many years. Studies have shown that it will kill if used correctly.

Green water is a no-brainer. Worked for me many times. GDA (provided you addressed the underlying issue) can be addressed but you need to scrape it off so that it is in the water column and passes through the filter. It doesn't happen instantly but over the course of a couple of weeks with consistent scraping, it won't come back.

I think there is too much science behind it to call it snake oil. It just needs to be used correctly for it to be effective. It's a tool in your arsenal, IMO.
 
Do you have a unit/brand you would recommend?
Here you go!

Great read.

 
In my experience, as was said above, the UV sterilizer can be a good tool to have to deal with something, be it bacterial, parasitic or algae. Therefore, having one that can be added to the ecosystem when needed is important. In other words, you don't want to run one 24/7.

To accomplish this, many people use a hang-on or an internal UV sterilizer. Of course, if you plan on using it relatively often, you can plumb one into the filter return but I suggest using a T fitting with a valve to allow you to divert flow to it when needed and to control the flow.

I always recommend getting a more powerful one than you need. Most beginner UV sterilizers come with a 10 watt bulb. I would recommend going with a stronger 20-30 watt if possible. This gives you more flexibility and it sterilizes quicker. Most people use it for algae so you want faster flow through it so you need more power due to the lower contact time.

Lastly, you need to be able to control the flow through the UV sterilizer. The general rule I've read is between 3 and 4 times tank turnover as a starting point. If you are battling a parasite (like ich), then a slower flow is recommended as you need longer contact time. However, for fast growing algae, you want more turnover with enough power to kill it. By being able to adjust it with a valve, this gives you the luxury of tuning in the optimal flow for your situation.

On the impact it has on our fertilizers and the plants' ability to get nutrients, I have never experienced any negative effects. I guess if you run it continuously, you may have some issues. Running it intentionally for a period should be perfectly OK IMO. YMMV.
 
I've looked into uv a few times as a possible addition to my QT (and just to have on hand in case I ever developed a green water problem), and it always seemed too expensive to get a unit with the correct power/contact time. I'm not a gadget person though - if I get away without another piece of equipment I usually take that option.
 
I understand. They can be pricey depending on what you need.

I've used this one from Sicce (13W version) that allows you to adjust flow. It's still pricey but if you quarantine fish relatively often, I would probably save up for it.

 
@Art I might pick up the Sicce 13w one, thx for that link. I did one a year ago after I had a fish death in my tank. I've never had green water (knock on driftwood), but my unit was an undersized green killing machine. I was also running the pump in it 24/7 for a while without the UV, but now that I think about it, I bet that would encourage beneficial bacteria to build up inside the unit, diminishing the UV.
 
I was also running the pump in it 24/7 for a while without the UV, but now that I think about it, I bet that would encourage beneficial bacteria to build up inside the unit, diminishing the UV.
I think this is true. Just like your filter hose, it will develop buildup that will impact the effectiveness of the sterilizer.
 

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