rotala tulunadensis , golden nesaea help!

[nijat11]

Hello everyone! I'm new member on this forum. I need a help to identify problem with my rotala tulunadensis and golden nasea.

My aquarium is 1500l including filer.
It runs for 9 months, subatrate is dennerle denponiz mix as base, aquasoil and capped with fine gravel on the top.
I have CO2 injection and making -1pH every day (controlled by ph regularor).

LIghts are chihiros wrgb universal and daytime matrix. The photoperiod is 8 hours.

Ferts:
Macro 500ml solution
22g KNO3
6g KH2PO4
9g Urea
13g K2SO4
Mgso4 72g
Daily 30ml

Micro:
Solution bottle 500ml
Tenso cocktail 23g
Daily dose 17ml

FE dtpa 4g
Daily dose 30ml

Water change every 2 weeks around 30-40% with 75ro + 25% tap.
Average water tds 210ppm

All my planta grows well, except these two. They get brown dots on leaves, the stem and leaves of rotala melts. What could be reason for this?
Please see the attached photos.
Thank you in advance.
please see

 

[Sb1415]

You might have seen this already but just in case

How to grow Rotala tulunadensis

How to grow Rotala tulunadensis. It is a picky plant that does best in very soft water. It requires stable nutrient access to grow well long term. It favors a rich substrate that is low in organic waste.

www.2hraquarist.com

 

[Burr740]

Couple observations. I see youre controlling co2 with a ph controller, correct? Im not familiar with the aquasoil brands you mentioned, but if they lower kh, like ada, contrasoil, etc, you dont want co2 tied to a certain ph level because it wont be the same through the week. If you look at the ph/kh/co2 charts, that we all know are not accurate, but they do illustrate the point here - if KH changes at all through the week, you wont be getting the same co2 if you have it tied to a specific ph all the time.

Notice how co2 levels change at the same ph when KH moves even 1 pojnt. Even a half a point is enough to make a big difference



To use a ph controller for co2, you need a rock solid kh that doesnt move, in other words inert substrate. Either that, or to have a flat 0 KH that cant move because it doesnt exist. Thats the only way to have consistant CO2 using a ph controller with an active substrate

Having said all that, I dont believe your issue is co2

As to the ferts, thanks for all those numbers, but they dont tell us anything about the actual ppm youre dosing. Knowing that would give a better idea what range you are in. Just from looking I want to say both plants are lacking a mobile nutrient, one or more macros most likely. Here's why I say that

The Ammannia pedicelata (not nesaea gold) absolutely doesnt like high nutrients in the water. But too high nutrients doesnt cause you what yours are doing, it makes the tops stunt badly. Your tops arent stunted. The plant is taking nutrients from the lower leaves to fuel its new growth (the top), which is why those lower leaves are in poor condition. Tulu is showing the same symptoms. Therefore the conclusion is they need a little more mobile nutrients in the water, which are primarily the macros

 

[nijat11]

Couple observations. I see youre controlling co2 with a ph controller, correct? Im not familiar with the aquasoil brands you mentioned, but if they lower kh, like ada, contrasoil, etc, you dont want co2 tied to a certain ph level because it wont be the same through the week. If you look at the ph/kh/co2 charts, that we all know are not accurate, but they do illustrate the point here - if KH changes at all through the week, you wont be getting the same co2 if you have it tied to a specific ph all the time.

Notice how co2 levels change at the same ph when KH moves even 1 pojnt. Even a half a point is enough to make a big difference

View attachment 10604

To use a ph controller for co2, you need a rock solid kh that doesnt move, in other words inert substrate. Either that, or to have a flat 0 KH that cant move because it doesnt exist. Thats the only way to have consistant CO2 using a ph controller with an active substrate

Having said all that, I dont believe your issue is co2

As to the ferts, thanks for all those numbers, but they dont tell us anything about the actual ppm youre dosing. Knowing that would give a better idea what range you are in. Just from looking I want to say both plants are lacking a mobile nutrient, one or more macros most likely. Here's why I say that

The Ammannia pedicelata (not nesaea gold) absolutely doesnt like high nutrients in the water. But too high nutrients doesnt cause you what yours are doing, it makes the tops stunt badly. Your tops arent stunted. The plant is taking nutrients from the lower leaves to fuel its new growth (the top), which is why those lower leaves are in poor condition. Tulu is showing the same symptoms. Therefore the conclusion is they need a little more mobile nutrients in the water, which are primarily the macros

Thank you for reply. Do you suggest to increase NPK?

 

[Koan]

Macro 500ml solution
22g KNO3
6g KH2PO4
9g Urea
13g K2SO4
Mgso4 72g
Daily 30ml

The way to manage quantities of each nutrient for your plants, is to choose a target amount for each nutrient to add your tank each week.

In order to do that, you need to know how your fertilizer mixture translates into actual dosing for your tank.

We have a tool here that can help you discover out how much of each nutrient, measured in ppm, each 30 mls of your current mixture will add to your 1500 L tank, each time you dose.

For example : your 500 mL of solution contains 9000 mg of Urea.

In order to find out how much nitrate you are adding with this component, with each 30ml dose, you would use the calculator this way :



So, you can see that with your current fertilizer mixture, you're adding 0.17 PPM nitrate into your 1500 L of aquarium water every day, or 1.19 ppm weekly.

This is a very low amount of nitrate to feed growing plants. By comparison, Dennis Wong's recommendation for a medium growth tank is 5 to 12 PPM of nitrate weekly. If you were to use the estimated index dosing regimen, the recommendation would be higher still.

Use this calculator to figure out how much of each one of your nutrients is included in each 30 ml dose to your 1500 l tank. Then compare it to some recommendations for weekly dosing for good growth, and see how you can adjust either the components or the dosing to match.

Does this make sense?

 

[nijat11]

The way to manage quantities of each nutrient for your plants, is to choose a target amount for each nutrient to add your tank each week.

In order to do that, you need to know how your fertilizer mixture translates into actual dosing for your tank.

We have a tool here that can help you discover out how much of each nutrient, measured in ppm, each 30 mls of your current mixture will add to your 1500 L tank, each time you dose.

For example : your 500 mL of solution contains 9000 mg of Urea.

In order to find out how much nitrate you are adding with this component, with each 30ml dose, you would use the calculator this way :

View attachment 10606

So, you can see that with your current fertilizer mixture, you're adding 0.17 PPM nitrate into your 1500 L of aquarium water every day, or 1.19 ppm weekly.

This is a very low amount of nitrate to feed growing plants. By comparison, Dennis Wong's recommendation for a medium growth tank is 5 to 12 PPM of nitrate weekly. If you were to use the estimated index dosing regimen, the recommendation would be higher still.

Use this calculator to figure out how much of each one of your nutrients is included in each 30 ml dose to your 1500 l tank. Then compare it to some recommendations for weekly dosing for good growth, and see how you can adjust either the components or the dosing to match.

Does this make sense?

I`m sorry for not putting the exact ppm, the mentioned amounts are in gram and they bring the following weekly values




The thing is, everything was perfect, as example here you can observe my rotalas and ammania before:






Everthing changed when I was on vaction, some fishes died in aquarium and GSA went crazy. I managed to kill it, by UV, water change on hydrogen perioxide. I trimmed all plants and replanted them, but since then they cant recover.
Also i have a lot of biload, I have 16 big angels, some tetras and currently (temproary) 60 baby angel fishes.
The only thing what I can think is about K deficiency, but when I tried to increase K, i see impact on calcium uptake.
Just for experiment I have ordered new ammannia pedicellata to see if it will grow.
I will appreaciate any advice.
Thank you in advance.

 

[Naturescapes_Rocco]

I`m sorry for not putting the exact ppm, the mentioned amounts are in gram and they bring the following weekly values
View attachment 10625

View attachment 10626

The thing is, everything was perfect, as example here you can observe my rotalas and ammania before:

View attachment 10627


View attachment 10628

Everthing changed when I was on vaction, some fishes died in aquarium and GSA went crazy. I managed to kill it, by UV, water change on hydrogen perioxide. I trimmed all plants and replanted them, but since then they cant recover.

GSA is almost always related to a bottomed-out PO4 in the water column. Like, 95% of the time or more.
Have you tested your PO4 ppm? Perhaps your plants ran out of PO4 during your vacation...

 

[nijat11]

GSA is almost always related to a bottomed-out PO4 in the water column. Like, 95% of the time or more.
Have you tested your PO4 ppm? Perhaps your plants ran out of PO4 during your vacation...

Sorry not GSA, but GDA

 

[Burr740]

Thank you for reply. Do you suggest to increase NPK?

I was about to absolutely, until I read this

Everthing changed when I was on vaction, some fishes died in aquarium and GSA went crazy. I managed to kill it, by UV, water change on hydrogen perioxide. I trimmed all plants and replanted them, but since then they cant recover.
Also i have a lot of biload, I have 16 big angels, some tetras and currently (temproary) 60 baby angel fishes.
The only thing what I can think is about K deficiency, but when I tried to increase K, i see impact on calcium uptake.
Just for experiment I have ordered new ammannia pedicellata to see if it will grow.
I will appreaciate any advice.
Thank you in advance.

You had a major upheaval in the whole system right here. And since then youve made various changes trying to fix it. Two of your most sensitive plants took it hard. Thats natural, and it can take some time to recover. This damaged growth isnt gonna fix itself. It'll have to grow out of it. And it looks like it is. But since this is older leaves being affected youll have to wait until this new growth becomes old and whether it holds up or not.

Everything looked good before you said. Looks great in the pics. I would go back to exactly what you were doing before the vacation and just be patient for a month or two. Having stable consistent parameters that dont change is important, especially for sensitive species. So avoid making any more changes trying to fix something

I do think they suffered primarily from lack of one or more NPK. Maybe it ran low while you were on vacation? Couldve been induced by whatever else happened. Regardless, what you were doing before the vacation was working fine. I would go back to exactly that. Just dont be shy with NPK, know that youre probably borderline with barely enough given what happened

 

[nijat11]

I was about to absolutely, until I read this



You had a major upheaval in the whole system right here. And since then youve made various changes trying to fix it. Two of your most sensitive plants took it hard. Thats natural, and it can take some time to recover. This damaged growth isnt gonna fix itself. It'll have to grow out of it. And it looks like it is. But since this is older leaves being affected youll have to wait until this new growth becomes old and whether it holds up or not.

Everything looked good before you said. Looks great in the pics. I would go back to exactly what you were doing before the vacation and just be patient for a month or two. Having stable consistent parameters that dont change is important, especially for sensitive species. So avoid making any more changes trying to fix something

I do think they suffered primarily from lack of one or more NPK. Maybe it ran low while you were on vacation? Couldve been induced by whatever else happened. Regardless, what you were doing before the vacation was working fine. I would go back to exactly that. Just dont be shy with NPK, know that youre probably borderline with barely enough given what happened

Thank you for the detailed information.
I have not changed anything regarding the fertilization, everything is automated. What changed? Temperature! During summer it wents to 30-31, before it was 26, now it is 27-28 because I have new Altums.

 

[nijat11]

I think i found the issue and it is Fe deficiency. I did iron test for couple of the days and get result of 0. Seems some plants are heavy iron eaters, so I increased iron dosage and I think plants are improving.