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I did a 40 gallon water change which is more than some of y'alls tanks
This is my 93 gallon cube which measures 31" x 31" x 24". With combined sump its about 120 gallons.
These are very customized 16 inch SBReef Lights. They were real ugly so I painted them White. Removed the lenses and added light diffuser grid where the glass should be. Oh also upgraded the internal fan with computer fans.
It is actually a Marineland 93 gallon cube. I bought it off a saltwater guy that was moving. Tore the entire thing down and even re-sealed the entire tank. Took 3 tries to get the silicone to where I was happy enough to put that much water in it. When I got the tank it has an enourmous amout of coraline algae literally everywhere.
Sump is an Aqueon 20 gallon tank. It has a Fiji Cube sump kit in it. Pump is a Jaboa DCP 9000 so 9k liters per hr at full but I run it at the lowest setting. Tank has an Eshopps PF 120 Hang On Back Overflow with 1 inch pipes.
This tank took quite a hit after setup. I believe the lighting is far from what the plants were growing in, in the old tank. Along with that getting a 1.0 pH drop in over 100 gallons of water is hard. (Im still working on that). They are resiliant and will bounce back quickly.
Here is where all the plants came from. Its my old UNS 60U. 20 gallon tank.
@GreggZ I need to rebuild my Cerges reactor. Its a Big 20" whole house filter and was configured with a Jebao DCP 4000. So on its own loop. For this to work I would have to have the input and output hose in the tank which is about 5.8 feet high at the rim. This doesn't include the Output hose from the sump. I need to break down and buy the PVC to re-plumb it into the current system, inline with the sump pump. About $150 of fittings, gate valves and unions.
Currently the tank has a very under rated Aquario Neo diffuser providing the CO2. It does its job but I only get about 0.25pH drop.
So I finally had the money and time to finish my DIY Cerges reactor. It hurt the bank haha.
Didnt turn out quite as I had planned but I adapted and think the design will work perfectly.
Guess it'll grow on me LOL.
Water exits the sump pump and then enters the reactor. There is also a bypass valve (Blue) so as to adjust how much water is actually going into the reactor or continuing on to the return. CO2 enters right after the black valve. Water exits the reactor where another black valve is, just in case I want to reduce flow coming out of the reactor. Water then goes into the return pipe going up to the tank.
The only issue I've had so far is purging the air from the reactor on 1st run (dry run). I guess this is where that little red purge button saved the day.
I did have to re-dial in both siphon tubes and also adjust the pump flow rate to stabilize the system. Such is live with a sump I guess.
Hey, @GreggZ would it be possible to change this thread post into a buld thread of mine? This way its all in the same place and can continue on. Yes its a little backwards but hey... On that note can you have multiple build threads attached to your profile?
That was the inital design but if and when (we all know it happens) when the CO2 air bubble got too big inside the chamber it would cause to pump to shut down. It is a Jeboa DCP 4000 with active water circuitry. If it sensed the pump going dry the pump automatically shut off. It was such a pain in the ass.
That’s interesting, I never experienced that type of issue. I have my cerges setup in reverse utilizing a SMART water bottle. Water constantly pushes down on the bubble till it dissolves and floats down out of the bottle and out of the output.
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