Micros

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Would dosing too much micros cause algae, or damage plants in such a way to cause algae? What would be an amount (Fe as proxy) that would cause an issue if such issue even exists?
 
Although I can't answer question, I have wondered about how some report their micro dosing. For example, listing the weekly dose at say .45 Fe, but then go on to say they do a double, triple or even a quadruple dose at water change - not sure how the numbers add up here.
 
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I personally add .2 proxy for Fe after a WC. Then the rest of the week I’ll add straight Fe DTPA/Gluc at .1 per dose a couple times when I remember.

But I def think micro toxicity affects a good number of plants. @Burr740 would prob have more insight with this
 
How much are you dosing? How much after water change and how much between water changes? I also think if you are doing 90% WC you are probably not over dosing.
From my understanding Micro toxicity does not occur until very high levels. I know you are using Burr aquas micro mix and I know his recommended dosing levels. Also Know that he does a double dose after a water change at times.
 
How much are you dosing? How much after water change and how much between water changes? I also think if you are doing 90% WC you are probably not over dosing.
From my understanding Micro toxicity does not occur until very high levels. I know you are using Burr aquas micro mix and I know his recommended dosing levels. Also Know that he does a double dose after a water change at times.
Just wondering. I'm around .45 or so.
 
Just wondering. I'm around .45 or so.
If I remember from reading about the early days of EI they were dosing much higher like 10x what we are now and it was found it was not needed.
If anything you are probably underdosing with 90% WC currently. Reason I say this is when I was doing 75% colors were not the best.
 
Would dosing too much micros cause algae, or damage plants in such a way to cause algae? What would be an amount (Fe as proxy) that would cause an issue if such issue even exists?
From my point of view, a number of factors can be triggers for algae, which usually have to be in some kind of interplay. That is, the deflection of one factor usually does not lead to any dramatic change, but rather a certain cascade of changes. The fact that algae become established on plants can, I believe, be caused by the plant ceasing to grow and beginning to excrete organic matter from its leaves in greater quantities. This attracts algae and bacteria, so they settle on it and start to multiply. A healthy, fast-growing plant largely eliminates this risk. Algae need a firm and preferably unchanging (immobile) surface on which to grow. This is followed by a 'lag phase' in which they 'pollute' this environment with their metabolic products. This creates a biofilm which is a breeding ground for various bacteria and algae. Once this is established, the algae start to multiply very quickly. The defence against this is quite simple:
(1) prevent algae from settling on solid objects (e.g. by regularly cleaning glass etc.).
(2) ensure that the plants grow as quickly as possible
(3) keep enough algae eaters (e.g. shrimps) in the aquarium
(4) have filter material in the aquarium that removes dissolved organic matter from the water (e.g. activated carbon or purigen)
etc. I think we all know this. :)
Nutrients don't play a big role in this problem in my opinion. In hydroponics, doses that we would find extreme (1-5 ppm Fe) are commonly used. Still, I don't think plants need much iron (or other microelements) as a matter of principle. If someone claims that their plants require more than 0.1 ppm Fe, it rather indicates that the bulk of the iron they are adding to the water will oxidize and precipitate out. Aquarium water is heavily oxidized, so iron will not last long in it. For example, common, unchelated iron salts (e.g. FeCl3) will last about 15 minutes in our water in a form which is accessible to plants. Chelated iron will last longer, but most of it will probably end up in the filter in the same short time.
 
From my point of view, a number of factors can be triggers for algae, which usually have to be in some kind of interplay.
Well…. I am going to be reading this post a few times over a few days to let it all sink in….

I recently removed Purigen after having a fine mesh bag split a seam in one tank and creating a purigen snowstorm….

Still doing 75% weekly water changes… but I have noticed I am trimming off more algae covered leaves of late than previously..

I have chalked it up to changing from EI dosing to PPS Pro, and the plants reprogramming to new nutrient loading in tank and older leaves being abandoned…

But I will keep the Purigen issue in the back of my mind if things dont turn around in a month or two…
 
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