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How Josh Sim fertilizes - his 3 rules

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Josh Sim just posted this video on his YouTube channel where he shares how he fertilizes his tanks. He talks about his 3 rules for fertilizing.



I think he knows what he's talking about given that he is a multi-time winner of ADA's IAPLC including this year's winning work, A River ... Somewhere.
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If you haven't read it before, I did An Interview with the aquascaping powerhouse, Josh Sim.

What do you think of how this grand champion fertilizes?
 
Was disappointed by the video, compared to his scapes! Some people are inherently good teachers, some are not.

Josh Sim is a multi grand champion winner of the IAPLC, yet I'm surprised that I hope this video doesn't go viral -- not because he doesn't know what he's doing, but because it's really not well explained.

Nothing he said is groundbreaking (which is why I take major issue with putting "conspiracy" in the literal title of the video) -- he doesn't fertilize the water column for the first month, just lets plants adapt to the conditions via aquasoil nutrients. He doses very lean in his tanks (extremely common for hardscape-heavy IAPLC diorama Tanks, almost exactly what every diorama-style winner has done for every competition), he front loads after a weekly 50% water change, and he doses even less than most labels recommend.

As he states in his own comment section, he's not an expert -- he likes a "lazy approach".

But there is so much important information he doesn't explain that those in this hobby would seriously misunderstand, for example in the comments:
"yes i agree that nutrient from the substrate level is equally or maybe more important [as whatever fertilizer you add]!"

Like, Josh, that's HUGE. Information like that massively matters to the way a tank is run! Thousands of people will be watching this video, are you going to assume they all use nutrient-rich aquasoil? Or, would you mind explicitly explaining that your success with this nutrient style is the result of nutrient-rich aquasoil?

In my "experiment" tank which has inert sand, my plants (even if given the chance to adapt) would nearly immediately stunt and algae would explode if I followed his 3-part advice. Not because it's wrong, but because it doesn't work with my aquarium's setup. I know why, I can explain why, and I don't claim inert sand is better than aquasoil.

In my large 150p tank, which started with ~$800 of ADA Amazonia Aquasoil, I could have not fertilized for well over 1 month and still seen good plant growth, and for the next 6 months followed a lean front-loading dosing method like he described, and got good growth. Now, approaching a year with POUNDS of plant biomass grown, my aquasoil is basically spent and no longer provides any macros to my system. I am literally required to dose quite a lot of ferts.

But I can explain why, and I do. But I don't have the reach Josh Sim does.

... this comment from Josh:
"Actually i did not go into detail study of why i do what i do....it is just pure instinct and logic and after so many years, it become a habit. "
It's a sixteen minute video! So what were we learning from the video? What is the point of a video like this??

It's presented like this is some big secret that we should really consider following, but it's not a secret, it's just science and isn't hard to understand.

Ultimately I don't mind a grand champion sharing his methods, but between the thumbnail, the clickbait title, and the "discussion" style of the video, I wanted him to explain WHY or HOW he follows this method -- not for me, I already understand the reason why his method works for his tanks and the style of the tanks he grows. I previously only used a lean fertilizer method for all of my tanks (see the river-style tanks in my signature and the bowl scapes I've done).

I want him to explain WHY or HOW his method works because beginners will follow his method and either find success or not, but he didn't explain anything other than the basic of his method. He may not even understand it himself, as it sounds like he leans more on instinct and visual assessment of his tanks and plant health.

Still, I'm so tired of very few people in the hobby understanding the actual reasons behind their successes and failures. This video feels only like throwing more sh*t in the pile without explaining WHY. More misinformation/misunderstanding, despite a mostly good intention.

Some people are inherently good teachers, some are not. See @Dennis Wong for an example of a good teacher!

/soapbox
 
+💯💯

Compare to this explanation on
how to balance water column nutrient levels through dosing/testing/front loading in the current Rotala macrandra page:
 
I figured Joe, Gregg, Rocco, or Dennis would jump on this. Unfortunately, this mindset has been around for a long time and will likely continue. One of the biggest myths in aquascaping stems from this “lazy attitude”: that aquascaped tanks only last a few months before crashing and need a reset.

Sure, algae isn’t an issue if the water has no nutrients, but then plants only scrape by just long enough to reach that final photo in 2–3 months. Even the IAPLC itself is named for layouts—it’s a “layout” contest, not a grow-out-and-maintain contest. Many have said it’s become more about stone and wood than plants. A top ranking doesn’t necessarily equal success in the hobby.

For over a decade, I’ve focused on helping beginners succeed by starting with plant care. Tom Barr has been saying “grow plants instead of fighting algae” forever, and Dennis Wong has done an incredible job carrying that message forward with clear YouTube content and articles. I’ve endorsed his work publicly and sent hundreds—probably thousands—of people to Barr Report, 2Hr Aquarist, and lately ScapeCrunch to do their “homework” before I mentor them.

This isn’t about Josh—he’s an awesome guy and I’ve enjoyed his work and company—but about the impact this “lazy attitude” has on the hobby’s growth. Stable, sustainable, repeatable—those are three concepts I’ll always support.

Less talking….More scaping. Now go trim your plants.
 
Even the IAPLC itself is named for layouts—it’s a “layout” contest, not a grow-out-and-maintain contest. Many have said it’s become more about stone and wood than plants. A top ranking doesn’t necessarily equal success in the hobby.

IMG_7387.webp
 
Many have said it’s become more about stone and wood.........
And from what I've seen in the build videos for those top scapes; metal, spray foam, duct tape, mirrors, etc.

Don't get me wrong, those competition scapes are amazing and it takes great vision and artistry to create them. But as soon as I saw Josh's video, my very first question was: does this apply to all his tanks or just competition tanks. I've heard others ( I think even you here or in one of your videos) mention how the care of competition tanks is different than long term tanks. I think anyone can see that those elaborate diorama tanks aren't going to last very long.
 
+💯💯

Compare to this explanation on
Great reading but what if someone instead doing 80% water change, do only 50%? Should do a triple dose after wc + 3 dose x week or less?

For example, if I do 4-1-6, three times per week, after wc, should I do single? Double dose? What about micros? Same thing should be applied to micros too?
 
Great reading but what if someone instead doing 80% water change, do only 50%? Should do a triple dose after wc + 3 dose x week or less?

For example, if I do 4-1-6, three times per week, after wc, should I do single? Double dose? What about micros? Same thing should be applied to micros too?
Sounds like you should check out my accumulation spreadsheet!

I do 70%+ WC in all my tanks, so I do a double dose (66% of the total weekly dose) immediately after water change, and a "booster" dose halfway+ through the week (33% weekly dose):

1760372592691.webp

Here's the same scenario with a 70% water change if I front-loaded the entire dose after the WC:

1760372654834.webp

Here's what it looks like in Rotala Butterfly's accumulation calculator if i were to dose the weekly dose evenly across 7 days, with no extra after the 70% WC:

1760372753289.webp


I can update my calculator to include more dosing days to test what you're asking for!
 
The only problem should be, how can I know the uptake from plants?
If you have very accurate test kits, you can test day by day to get an estimation. Most hobbyists guess and test to stay within the zone. You know you have fluctuating levels when plants get stressed. Sensitive species get stressed first, manifesting as stunting tips in some species (such as Rotala tulunadensis and Rotala macrandras), or algae on leaves. Both upspikes and downspikes can affect plants. This is why folks get married to certain ways to running their tanks and are afraid to change variables - because it can take quite a while to dial in variables unless you have very precise tools that shorten the process.

IMG_20231024_155830 Hanna.webp

And from what I've seen in the build videos for those top scapes; metal, spray foam, duct tape, mirrors, etc.

Don't get me wrong, those competition scapes are amazing and it takes great vision and artistry to create them. But as soon as I saw Josh's video, my very first question was: does this apply to all his tanks or just competition tanks. I've heard others ( I think even you here or in one of your videos) mention how the care of competition tanks is different than long term tanks. I think anyone can see that those elaborate diorama tanks aren't going to last very long.

Elaborate dioramas are often easier to maintain than stem plant tanks if the structures are accessible. Many dioramas only use plants that stick on surfaces - these are often slower growers, low light, easily trimmed and replanted (re-glued usually). Taking away the need to replant and manage rooted plants save a lot of time. A couple of things do deteriorate after a few years - glue and wood, so the structures may start to fall apart due to mechanical failure. The picture below is take after the tank has been running for 2years plus. Many surfaces were re-turfed at some point. Generally it was easy to maintain though, far easier than my usual stem plant tanks.

Competition scapers tear down their tanks quickly because many of them only have 1 or 2 tanks, and need to reuse the space. Many competition folks also want to participate in more than 1 competition per year. some folks like Fukada still has some of his older dioramas around. Generally they maintain them in a more sparsely planted state, but as long as the hardscape is intact, the tank will look alright.

2hrAquaristXiaozhuang Wong3 (2).webp

I think Josh gave a ton of disclaimers when making the video, that's the main saving grace. He can't explain much because I don't think he fully understands why his approach works for him either. Johor (where he stays) shares similar tap to Singapore. There is some potassium and magnesium/Calcium in the water. Its very soft, pure, low KH/GH water. So its easy for his tanks to settle in with just some leaching from aquasoil. If his tap was devoid of potassium, it could be very different outcome. I doubt he even owns a potassium test kit though, just like any other hobbyist, he does not know what he doesn't know. I think you guys are right that folks like him should be more aware of how the spread of their words can have a wide ranging impact on the hobby.
 
What I got from his video, and it's ok:

a) it doesn't matter which bottle of fertilizer u use ... it's all the same ... lol
b) use only 50% of recommended dose ... "they don't know what they are saying"
c) doesn't dose daily but only with water change ... changes water every other day ... lol

But it doesn't matter since, as Dennis explained, makes contest dioramas with easy plants under low light. It's like comparing 100 m sprint to a marathon. Difficult plant growing vs diorama scaping.
 
I figured Joe, Gregg, Rocco, or Dennis would jump on this. Unfortunately, this mindset has been around for a long time and will likely continue. One of the biggest myths in aquascaping stems from this “lazy attitude”: that aquascaped tanks only last a few months before crashing and need a reset.

Sure, algae isn’t an issue if the water has no nutrients, but then plants only scrape by just long enough to reach that final photo in 2–3 months. Even the IAPLC itself is named for layouts—it’s a “layout” contest, not a grow-out-and-maintain contest. Many have said it’s become more about stone and wood than plants. A top ranking doesn’t necessarily equal success in the hobby.

For over a decade, I’ve focused on helping beginners succeed by starting with plant care. Tom Barr has been saying “grow plants instead of fighting algae” forever, and Dennis Wong has done an incredible job carrying that message forward with clear YouTube content and articles. I’ve endorsed his work publicly and sent hundreds—probably thousands—of people to Barr Report, 2Hr Aquarist, and lately ScapeCrunch to do their “homework” before I mentor them.

This isn’t about Josh—he’s an awesome guy and I’ve enjoyed his work and company—but about the impact this “lazy attitude” has on the hobby’s growth. Stable, sustainable, repeatable—those are three concepts I’ll always support.

Less talking….More scaping. Now go trim your plants.
Two things were real eye openers for me once I dug into the competition: 1) as you said - these layouts are very temporary in the big scheme of things - a few months tops and 2) watching Josh's build video of the winning tank - the tank is PURELY for the photo, if you zoom out and look at the whole thing, its an almighty mess. Now of course it works, but my point is no one is gonna have that in their house and be ok with it. These tanks are not display tanks in the normal sense of the term. They are "photo" tanks vs display tanks. And that is really important.
 

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