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Home RO set up for aquarium and drinking

Joined
Jun 18, 2025
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Location
Cincinnati, OH, USA
Looking for recs on RO set up

Needs
  • water for a 29 and 23 gallon tank
  • not doing auto top off
  • weekly water change of about 50%
  • planning to use it also for drinking for a 4 family household so need some way to remineralize it
  • looking at under the sink option in our kitchen but not necessarily sure how I would store the water

Would be great if people can share their experience with similar setups

Thank you
 
I went with an undersink, on demand unit after reading that holding tanks can grow bacteria if not cleaned regularly.
I’m very happy with the system - 800gpd, a very good 3:1 pure to waste ratio, incorporates a UV sterilizer and you can get it with a remineralizing cartridge (which I opted against - I remineralize and structure my drinking water separately).

Waterdrop 800

I suppose a drawback would be a slower refill time for waterchanges than if you had a storage tank, but I only used it for a 10g shrimp tank so it didn’t matter to me much.
 
I went with an undersink, on demand unit after reading that holding tanks can grow bacteria if not cleaned regularly.
I’m very happy with the system - 800gpd, a very good 3:1 pure to waste ratio, incorporates a UV sterilizer and you can get it with a remineralizing cartridge (which I opted against - I remineralize and structure my drinking water separately).

Waterdrop 800

I suppose a drawback would be a slower refill time for waterchanges than if you had a storage tank, but I only used it for a 10g shrimp tank so it didn’t matter to me much.
Thanks. This looks pretty good to me. I think i might go with this. Curious why you did not do the remineralize cartridge, which seems would allow a T to get water out for the aquarium before sending it for drinking ?
 
Thanks. This looks pretty good to me. I think i might go with this. Curious why you did not do the remineralize cartridge, which seems would allow a T to get water out for the aquarium before sending it for drinking?
I wanted control over the amount and quality of the minerals. I use this natural product and then swirl the water in a vortex to oxygenate, drive pH up and structure (woo!) : )
Aussie Trace Minerals
Mayu Water
 
I wanted control over the amount and quality of the minerals. I use this natural product and then swirl the water in a vortex to oxygenate, drive pH up and structure (woo!) : )
Aussie Trace Minerals
Mayu Water
Thanks, came across Aussie trace multiple times. Turned out we don’t have a power outlet under the sink! Bummer. Did you have one or end up installing a power outlet ? Curious on the price.
 
Thanks, came across Aussie trace multiple times. Turned out we don’t have a power outlet under the sink! Bummer. Did you have one or end up installing a power outlet ? Curious on the price.
Lol, I drilled a hole down through the cabinet into the basement and used an extension cord to an outlet. However, I did have to hire a plumber because my sink did not have a spare hole for the tap and I was reluctant to drill through stainless steel myself, so I had the plumber just do that and install the whole thing, for around $200.
 
I currently use an Apec RO-90 mounted under the sink in my basement bathroom (not using it for drinking water). I just refill water jugs from the RO system tap as I use them for my 3 current tanks. I built a DIY water change system with 2 trash cans on a cart and an RV type diaphragm pump. One can is for waste water and the other is filled with RO water from the jugs. I then re-mineralize with Seachem Equilibrium (open to suggestions on anything better that doesn't cost too much).

It's not the most efficient setup but works for now with just 3 tanks. My plan is to move to a large RO storage tank in the basement from which I can pump water to future additional tanks in the basement and those that are on the 1st floor of the house.

 
Here's a simple explanation: All RO systems are essentially three different parts: Prefilters, the Membrane, and a postfilter/storage tank.
There are usually 2-3 Prefilters: sediment, carbon, and another type of carbon. They just operate with your house's water pressure and are super cheap to change. They remove sediment, metals, and chlorine/chloramine. They're not special filters, you can find tons of parts and replacement filters on amazon for super cheap. It's important to have them clean the water before the next part:

The RO Membrane actually does the most purification. It has one inlet from the prefilters, and two outlets: one pure water, one wastewater. The wastewater is extremely important as it flushes the junk that would clog the membrane. Most systems have a ratio of 1:2 or 1:4 pure:waste in terms of water, but you can improve that down the line or buy higher-end systems that improve the ratio.

The pure line out from the membrate , then usually to a Storage Tank. Most systems can hook up to undersink bladder tanks, which are essentially filled with RO water that pushes out like a filled balloon when you turn the little RO faucet on. Some systems will have a post-tank carbon filter to help prevent any bad taste from the storage tank (bladder tanks often taste kinda bad at first!).

Instead of running your pure RO line to only a storage tank, you can use a 1/4" RO Tee fitting to split the pure RO line to run to a Float Valve in a barrel/bucket nearby to collect large amounts of RO water. This is how most aquarists use RO water AND keep their RO system useable for drinking/cooking!

1753842637510.webp

I have been using two of these systems for about 5+ years:

Express Water RO5DX Reverse Osmosis Filtration NSF Certified 5 Stage RO System with Faucet and Tank – Under Sink Water Plus 4 Filters – 50 GPD, 14 x 17 x 5, White

For $170, it has 3 prefilters (sediment, carbon and carbon), a 50-gallon-per-day RO membrane, a 3.2 gallon undersink pressure/bladder tank for drinking water storage, a PAC (post-tank carbon filter) to clean any taste from the bladder tank, and replacements for all of the filters and RO membrane. It's an insane deal and has great reviews for a reason.

The prefilters are standard 10-inch prefilters, so you don't have to get brand-name anything. SUPER cheap replacements are out there. The RO membrane is also the standard 50-gpd membrane size, so you can buy any similar size membrane for crazy cheap.

Produces 1-3TDS water (basically 99.9% purified).

I have one system under my kitchen sink that fills a small drinking/cooking RO water, then has a split for the pure water to fill a 110-gallon RO storage system in my basement that I pump up to my big 140-gallon tank for water changes, as well as for my 40-gallon tank, too. It's been life-changing!
 
Here's a simple explanation: All RO systems are essentially three different parts: Prefilters, the Membrane, and a postfilter/storage tank.
There are usually 2-3 Prefilters: sediment, carbon, and another type of carbon. They just operate with your house's water pressure and are super cheap to change. They remove sediment, metals, and chlorine/chloramine. They're not special filters, you can find tons of parts and replacement filters on amazon for super cheap. It's important to have them clean the water before the next part:

The RO Membrane actually does the most purification. It has one inlet from the prefilters, and two outlets: one pure water, one wastewater. The wastewater is extremely important as it flushes the junk that would clog the membrane. Most systems have a ratio of 1:2 or 1:4 pure:waste in terms of water, but you can improve that down the line or buy higher-end systems that improve the ratio.

The pure line out from the membrate , then usually to a Storage Tank. Most systems can hook up to undersink bladder tanks, which are essentially filled with RO water that pushes out like a filled balloon when you turn the little RO faucet on. Some systems will have a post-tank carbon filter to help prevent any bad taste from the storage tank (bladder tanks often taste kinda bad at first!).

Instead of running your pure RO line to only a storage tank, you can use a 1/4" RO Tee fitting to split the pure RO line to run to a Float Valve in a barrel/bucket nearby to collect large amounts of RO water. This is how most aquarists use RO water AND keep their RO system useable for drinking/cooking!

View attachment 9396

I have been using two of these systems for about 5+ years:

Express Water RO5DX Reverse Osmosis Filtration NSF Certified 5 Stage RO System with Faucet and Tank – Under Sink Water Plus 4 Filters – 50 GPD, 14 x 17 x 5, White

For $170, it has 3 prefilters (sediment, carbon and carbon), a 50-gallon-per-day RO membrane, a 3.2 gallon undersink pressure/bladder tank for drinking water storage, a PAC (post-tank carbon filter) to clean any taste from the bladder tank, and replacements for all of the filters and RO membrane. It's an insane deal and has great reviews for a reason.

The prefilters are standard 10-inch prefilters, so you don't have to get brand-name anything. SUPER cheap replacements are out there. The RO membrane is also the standard 50-gpd membrane size, so you can buy any similar size membrane for crazy cheap.

Produces 1-3TDS water (basically 99.9% purified).

I have one system under my kitchen sink that fills a small drinking/cooking RO water, then has a split for the pure water to fill a 110-gallon RO storage system in my basement that I pump up to my big 140-gallon tank for water changes, as well as for my 40-gallon tank, too. It's been life-changing!
Preparing to get parts to setup up my larger storage tank. What pump are you using?
 
Preparing to get parts to setup up my larger storage tank. What pump are you using?
See my post #37 here! I use a diaphragm pump. They are a pressure-focused pump that self-primes, so you don't have to prime them yourself. They can suck air dry completely and start sucking water like a vacuum when it's available. I use one of these, I believe. Been running 1-2 times a week for a year without issues, pumping from the basement upstairs!

The storage tanks I'm using are two Brute 55 Gal trash cans. I drilled each near the bottom and installed:
  1. these 3/4" bulkheads with valves.
  2. Then, I used a 3/4" NPT to 3/4" PVC Adapter,
  3. connected both trash cans in the middle with a 3/4" PVC Tee fitting,
  4. then a 3/4" PVC to 1/2" PVC reducer from the combined Tee,
  5. then a 1/2" PVC to 1/2" barb adapter.
The pump has 1/2" barb fittings on both ends, so you'll need some 1/2" hose and hose clamps. On the output side of the pump, I ran 1/2" PEX tubing to my tank! I have the pump on a smart timer so I can control via wifi, but also to program auto shut-offs when the switch is turned on so it can't run more than the max I want it to.

Can > 3/4" Bulkheads > 3/4" Female NPT to PVC adapter > 3/4" Tee fitting > 1/2" reducer > 1/2" barb adapter > 1/2" hose > pump > 1/2" PEX > aquarium area > 1/2" to 5/8" aquarium hose adapter > 5/8" Stainless Steel Ball Valve > Aquarium!

Never use brass or copper fittings for aquarium water.
 
Wow! This is right in line with what I had in mind. In fact, I was just checking price of Brute trash cans the other day. As a camper owner, I'm very familiar with those diaphragm pumps which is why I have one for my water change setup. I just didn't think one that cheap would handle the head height needed from the basement to the 1st floor.
 
Wow! This is right in line with what I had in mind. In fact, I was just checking price of Brute trash cans the other day. As a camper owner, I'm very familiar with those diaphragm pumps which is why I have one for my water change setup. I just didn't think one that cheap would handle the head height needed from the basement to the 1st floor.
Handles it well! I can fill about 70 gallons in about 22ish minutes, while the pump barely gets hot. I did buy a second one to keep on standby should the first one ever fail, but hopefully I'll get a few good years out of it at least.
 
Handles it well! I can fill about 70 gallons in about 22ish minutes, while the pump barely gets hot. I did buy a second one to keep on standby should the first one ever fail, but hopefully I'll get a few good years out of it at least.
Thanks! I might get started on this project this weekend.
 
Wow! This is right in line with what I had in mind. In fact, I was just checking price of Brute trash cans the other day. As a camper owner, I'm very familiar with those diaphragm pumps which is why I have one for my water change setup. I just didn't think one that cheap would handle the head height needed from the basement to the 1st floor.
Just for another option, I keep a 55g barrel in my basement to age water for my discus tank and use this submersible to pump up to my tank on the main floor using just a garden hose through the floor behind the tank. It lives in the barrel permanently and is plugged into a switch with a remote so I can easily turn it and off from upstairs. Plenty of head power!

IMG_0020.webp
 
Are you dosing potassium and micros separately as well as using equilibrium?
So far, I've been dosing a combination of APT 1 and APT 3 on alternating days with a manual addition of potassium a couple times a week. It's been working ok, but at the 8 month point since my first scape was planted, Im starting to see possibly a few kinks in the armor. What I could really use is a hands-on full day course from @Dennis Wong on fertilizers and overall plant health. 😃
 
So far, I've been dosing a combination of APT 1 and APT 3 on alternating days with a manual addition of potassium a couple times a week. It's been working ok, but at the 8 month point since my first scape was planted, Im starting to see possibly a few kinks in the armor. What I could really use is a hands-on full day course from @Dennis Wong on fertilizers and overall plant health. 😃
Well if you want to save some money, equilibrium is Ca, Mg, Fe, Mn and K. You can just get CaSo4 or CaCl for calcium, and MgSo4(Epsom salt) for Mg. You will massively save money on it if you do it that way. A 6lb bag of Epsom salt im still using from 2022. CaCl is ice melt however I have not looked or bought it yet but will be looking to when I get low on CaSo4 since it is more water soluble.
 

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