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Help Help identifying deficiencies

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I'm working on a journal for this setup but am wanting to get some feedback on my starting point/s in the meantime. This tank was previously run as a high energy setup with the majority of hardscape, substrate and , plants from that previous setup..

I stripped down that tank and gravel vacuumed the nearly 5 year old OG Amazonia substrate to be used as a base layer, placed several root tabs throughout and capped with UNS Controsoil.

Light is Chihiros WRGB2 set at R23 G19 B43. Photoperiod is 6hrs. Aiming for 45 to 50 par at substrate.

Fert schedule is based PPS Pro method (lean dosing) using GLA ferts. Dosing 1 ml Macro daily (per ml: NO3 0.25 ppm, PO4 0.025 ppm, K 0.164 ppm, Mg 0.051 ppm based on 160L) and 1 ml Micro daily (per ml: Fe 0.25 ppm).

My initial goal is to keep this tank low energy (no CO2). I have everything CO2 from previous setup but I would prefer not to use it in order to keep the maintenance on the lower end. It's a lot to ask and above my level of expertise to know precisely what to do to keep a low energy tank slowly growing with no/minimal algae.

Most of what I've come up so far is was "figured out" with the assistance of chatgpt. I've picked up on Reddit that the more knowledgeable aquarists frown heavily on using LLM's. I don't have that much experience with them but I've found it/them useful in establishing a starting point.

The tank move and rescape was spread out over three weeks. After doing an algae dip on all the plants, they were kept in my 45U with medium lighting and a basic fert applied weekly. This tank has been set up for almost 3 weeks. There are obvious deficiencies that I need help identifying. I also don't know if the deficiencies are from this new setup or residual from the previous setups and 3 week staging in 45U.

I really appreciate any input.
 

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I'm not knowledgeable much on this type tank, but I thought I'd offer to places to look.

First, if you are a member of the AGA, Sudipta Shaw did an amazing talk on high light non-CO2 tanks as the 2024 Convention.
The videos can be found on the AGA page in the Archives section.

Also, I've watched videos in the past by THIS guy. He does a lot of non-CO2 tanks that look great. Sorry I can't point you to a specific video. It's been awhile.
 
I'm not knowledgeable much on this type tank, but I thought I'd offer to places to look.

First, if you are a member of the AGA, Sudipta Shaw did an amazing talk on high light non-CO2 tanks as the 2024 Convention.
The videos can be found on the AGA page in the Archives section.

Also, I've watched videos in the past by THIS guy. He does a lot of non-CO2 tanks that look great. Sorry I can't point you to a specific video. It's been awhile.
Thanks, Sudipta Shaw looks like great resource.
 
Thanks, Sudipta Shaw looks like great resource.
He has a journal here, but I don't think he participates much anymore.
 
1st thing I see is if your dosing strictly using the PPS Pro method your numbers are off. Especially Fe (traces). Here is their official link discribing it. To paraphrase: Then we start dosing daily PPS-Pro solution #1 (Macros) at 1 ml per 10 gallon or 40 L and PPS-Pro #2 (Trace elements) at 0.5 ml per 10 gallon or 40 L. (Daily dose of 1 ppm NO3, 0.1 ppm PO4, 1.33 ppm K, 0.1 ppm Mg, 0.05 ppm Fe(TE)) Perpetual Preservation System - Chemicals & Dosing

Compared to APT Complete numbers from the online Rotala Butterfly Calculator.
To reach your target of 7.5ppm NO3 you will need to add 10.100 milliliter (equivalent to 2 tsp + 1/32 tsp + 1/64 tsp ) APT COMPLETE to your 40L aquarium to yield:
NO37.500
N1.693
P1.289
K16.930
Fe0.238
Mg2.931
Cu0.001
B0.038
Zn0.018
Mn0.038
Mo0
[th]
Element​
[/th][th]
ppm/degree​
[/th]​


Otherwise plants dont look to bad for a brand new setup. They are a bit discolored.
 
Honestly I wouldnt even bother trying to nail ppsp with a non co2 tank. Daily dosing is way too much trouble and the plants arent even using it that fast. Plus, and this is the big thing, your plants would likely benefit from having a higher concentration at one time, because the higher concentration makes it easier for plants to get the sm amounts they need

30% weekly water changes. Right after add 2-3 ppm NO3, .5-.7 ppm PO4, 4-5 ppm K, micros at .05-.07 ppm Fe. Thatll probably do for the whole week, or you can do another dose mid week

Sudipta's routine is the holy grail for non-co2 tanks for sure. But your plants <so far> are a whole lot easier than what he grows, so it probably isnt necessary, just fyi
 
1st thing I see is if your dosing strictly using the PPS Pro method your numbers are off. Especially Fe (traces). Here is their official link discribing it. To paraphrase: Then we start dosing daily PPS-Pro solution #1 (Macros) at 1 ml per 10 gallon or 40 L and PPS-Pro #2 (Trace elements) at 0.5 ml per 10 gallon or 40 L. (Daily dose of 1 ppm NO3, 0.1 ppm PO4, 1.33 ppm K, 0.1 ppm Mg, 0.05 ppm Fe(TE)) Perpetual Preservation System - Chemicals & Dosing

Compared to APT Complete numbers from the online Rotala Butterfly Calculator.
To reach your target of 7.5ppm NO3 you will need to add 10.100 milliliter (equivalent to 2 tsp + 1/32 tsp + 1/64 tsp ) APT COMPLETE to your 40L aquarium to yield:

NO37.500
N1.693
P1.289
K16.930
Fe0.238
Mg2.931
Cu0.001
B0.038
Zn0.018
Mn0.038
Mo0

[th]
Element

[/th][th]
ppm/degree

[/th]​



Otherwise plants dont look to bad for a brand new setup. They are a bit discolored.
Those quantities are closer to what I ran when I was using CO2.
Honestly I wouldnt even bother trying to nail ppsp with a non co2 tank. Daily dosing is way too much trouble and the plants arent even using it that fast. Plus, and this is the big thing, your plants would likely benefit from having a higher concentration at one time, because the higher concentration makes it easier for plants to get the sm amounts they need

30% weekly water changes. Right after add 2-3 ppm NO3, .5-.7 ppm PO4, 4-5 ppm K, micros at .05-.07 ppm Fe. Thatll probably do for the whole week, or you can do another dose mid week

Sudipta's routine is the holy grail for non-co2 tanks for sure. But your plants <so far> are a whole lot easier than what he grows, so it probably isnt necessary, just fyi
I had difficulty growing some of the plants he had even when I was running CO2.

I have an auto doser so daily dosing isn't an issue but if there's a better method/timing of delivery, I'm very open to switching.

Thank you!
 
30% weekly water changes. Right after add 2-3 ppm NO3, .5-.7 ppm PO4, 4-5 ppm K, micros at .05-.07 ppm Fe. Thatll probably do for the whole week, or you can do another dose mid week
Do you see any issue with me figuring out how to reach the levels you recommend using the GLA ferts I have on hand? KNO3 vs No3 etc? Or should I utilize a different fertilizer source?

Is using dry salts the preferred method or could I premix so I can use my auto-doser? If acceptable to premix, am I ok to mix all my macros or should I split them up?
 
@scotrock KNO3 is fine. Its what we all use. Just keep in mind it also adds some K. Roughly 3 ppm K for every 5 ppm NO3. So count that too when making your calculations

And yes you can put all your macros in the same mix, something else most everyone does. You might need a preservative to prevent mold. A mild acid like vinegar might work, or excel/glut. Personally I need a stronger preservative to keep the mold away, potassium sorbate at .2 gm per 500 ml is the ultimate way to go

Your micros dont need a strong mold blocker but they do need the ph adjusted low. Use ascorbic acid at .5 gm per 500 ml for micros
 

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