
Have you heard about the dry start method? I spoke about this way back on ScapeFu Episode 27.
From what I said back then:
Popularized by @plantbrain back in 2007, the Dry Start Method is intended to solve a problem people have with setting up an aquarium with tiny carpet plants. The problems are:
- These plants, like Hemianthus callitrichoides or HC, have tiny roots that are extremely difficult to plant.
- There’s a tendency to float when you flood the aquarium with water.
- HC also needs a lot of light and CO2 to grow well and carpet the aquarium bottom. Pressurized CO2, strong light and clear water are needed to get it established well in the aquarium. Not everyone can start with the right equipment and frequent water changes needed for clear water.
- Algae is a risk until HC really takes root.
- No algae
- No water changes/loose pieces floating around/being pulled up
- No replanting
- No cycling the aquarium
- No dosing
- No fiddling with CO2
- No having to buy a lot of plant material initially
- No transition from emergent to submersed states(some plants will, but with good CO2, this is greatly minimized)
- No extra electrical cost running other equipment during the dry phase.
- No labor
- Can do it outside in a tray even………


Tips:
- Light for full 10–12 hours to power photosynthesis and growth.
- Cover with cling wrap or glass or plastic. 100% for a few days then slowly peel corner.
- Hills are OK but you may want to pre-saturate. In fact, always pre-saturate. No puddles!
- Inert substrates will require liquid fertilizer. Dilute foliar fertilizer
- Patience! Resist the urge to flood! Wait 3–6 weeks at least
- When flooding, do 3–4 large 80%+ water changes to flush out substrate.
- Mould or fungus – H2O2 1:4 with water or Excel straight up