Cuphea Anagalloidea

Overall generally assuming CO2 is plentiful and optimized:

Worst conditions for this plant and other lythracae (Rotalas, ammanias, didiplis) are:

-inert substrate + high KH + EI level water column dosing.

Easiest conditions to grow this plant and other lythracae:
-low KH (the lower the better) + nutrient rich substrate + half EI and lower water column ferts.

People have success in between these two extremes as well, but this is generally what it comes down to for lythracae. The higher your KH is, the more you should consider root feeding and/or lowering KH as a solution to your issues with lythracae.

See Vin Kutty’s AGA 2019 talk and/or Rotala Kill Tank Journal thread on Barr Report.
 
Overall generally assuming CO2 is plentiful and optimized:

Worst conditions for this plant and other lythracae (Rotalas, ammanias, didiplis) are:

-inert substrate + high KH + EI level water column dosing.

Easiest conditions to grow this plant and other lythracae:
-low KH (the lower the better) + nutrient rich substrate + half EI and lower water column ferts.

People have success in between these two extremes as well, but this is generally what it comes down to for lythracae. The higher your KH is, the more you should consider root feeding and/or lowering KH as a solution to your issues with lythracae.

See Vin Kutty’s AGA 2019 talk and/or Rotala Kill Tank Journal thread on Barr Report.

Thank so much for your response.

I'm actually having a little trouble finding Vin Kutty's 2019 AGA talk, I've found the Rotala Kill Tank thread though.

If you were to be so kind, and if it's allowed, could you post the link here?

Greatly appreciated 🙏
 
Thank so much for your response.

I'm actually having a little trouble finding Vin Kutty's 2019 AGA talk, I've found the Rotala Kill Tank thread though.

If you were to be so kind, and if it's allowed, could you post the link here?

Greatly appreciated 🙏
No problem. Here’s his Rotala Kill Tank Journal detailing his experiments which he then presented on - Rotala Kill Tank. Unfortunately to watch his talk you have to pay to be an AGA member and then pay for access to the 2019 convention presentations.
 
No problem. Here’s his Rotala Kill Tank Journal detailing his experiments which he then presented on - Rotala Kill Tank. Unfortunately to watch his talk you have to pay to be an AGA member and then pay for access to the 2019 convention presentations.

Thank you kindly,

Very much appreciated
 
Hi @Joel Armstrong - thanks for adding this plant to the section. Here's a link to a good description for others to see what you're talking about: Cuphea anagalloidea

cuphea-anagalloidea-4f7a0321ad2e0.jpg

I've found the best way for me was zero KH in AquaSoil. I didn't change my dosing regimen that was leaner than EI anyways. I had a similar result with Rotala wallichii.
 
Rather than ferts, a common disease among aquarist haha, I did plenty of CO2, light and water changes, few things help like those. Cleaning, trimming etc. Ferts are fairly far down on the list. I've grown it here at full EI, 15 ppm NO3 2x a week, 5ppm PO4 2x a week etc. I've also grown it well at ZERO dosing of any fert salts. Same is true for R wallichii. For months. No micros, no K, nothing. I do have shrimps, bristle nose pleco, and feed those once or two a week. And I do have older ADA aqua soil. If you want a tougher challenge, try Rotala utriculosa (Red cross), actually another species of Cuphea and the same family as Rotala. I've grown it pretty well for a few years.
 

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Rather than ferts, a common disease among aquarist haha, I did plenty of CO2, light and water changes, few things help like those. Cleaning, trimming etc. Ferts are fairly far down on the list. I've grown it here at full EI, 15 ppm NO3 2x a week, 5ppm PO4 2x a week etc. I've also grown it well at ZERO dosing of any fert salts. Same is true for R wallichii. For months. No micros, no K, nothing. I do have shrimps, bristle nose pleco, and feed those once or two a week. And I do have older ADA aqua soil. If you want a tougher challenge, try Rotala utriculosa (Red cross), actually another species of Cuphea and the same family as Rotala. I've grown it pretty well for a few years.
Beautiful. Can’t leave out the KH though which in this tank was ~2-3 KH right?
 
Beautiful. Can’t leave out the KH though which in this tank was ~2-3 KH right?
My tap water runs 20 to 35 ppm as alkalinity, so 1-2 dKH basically. The no dose tanks with the soil, they are around zero because of no water changes. Likely 5ppm or less. So 0.3 dKH or less. I'm sure there is some, just not much. Growth with most any Rotala is good in the no dose tanks. Folks talk about careful low dosing, but I grow the plants just as well without any fert dosing other than food, and that's pretty light for those tanks. On the other side, I grow them at rich ferts. They both grow well, but the richer ferts, more water changes, etc, more cleaning, well, that's the price you pay. Slow things down, cooler tanks, mostly algae eaters, rich soil, mostly N limiting, with certain species that do well under no dosing, well............ a lot of species would die in such tanks. Erios and Rotala's, Crypts, Anubias etc, things will a lot of roots....seem to do well on no dosing.
 
My tap water runs 20 to 35 ppm as alkalinity, so 1-2 dKH basically. The no dose tanks with the soil, they are around zero because of no water changes. Likely 5ppm or less. So 0.3 dKH or less. I'm sure there is some, just not much. Growth with most any Rotala is good in the no dose tanks. Folks talk about careful low dosing, but I grow the plants just as well without any fert dosing other than food, and that's pretty light for those tanks. On the other side, I grow them at rich ferts. They both grow well, but the richer ferts, more water changes, etc, more cleaning, well, that's the price you pay. Slow things down, cooler tanks, mostly algae eaters, rich soil, mostly N limiting, with certain species that do well under no dosing, well............ a lot of species would die in such tanks. Erios and Rotala's, Crypts, Anubias etc, things will a lot of roots....seem to do well on no dosing.
Great to have you here, Tom. Hard to imagine the hobby without your contributions.
 
Great to have you here, Tom. Hard to imagine the hobby without your contributions.
Just make sure to try both extremes, then if that works, you can explain most of the rest in between. Even if you cannot do it, but you find someone else that appears to do say no dose, while you can do mega dose, then you can snuff out the fert myths and then focus on the basics of working on the tank: light/CO2, trimming, consistent care, big water changes. While I can get away with no water changes, I do not suggest it for the OP's tank. Nope, that's a chore and a lot of work to keep a garden dutch like tank. Nature style is very easy by comparison in terms of care once the hardscape and planting is done. Diorama's can quickly turn to crap also if good care and good light management are not done. As fa as skills, I think you need much more skill to grow a Dutch tank than the top winners of any scaper contest. Yes, scaping and such is tough and you can spend a lot of time of the design and set up. Different skill set, but once the hardscape is done, it's relatively easy thereafter. Not so with Dutch style tanks. BUT.....Dutch style tanks make more $ than top winning scapes via plant sales. And those dirty rats beat the USA team, but they totally deserved it too.
 
Just make sure to try both extremes, then if that works, you can explain most of the rest in between. Even if you cannot do it, but you find someone else that appears to do say no dose, while you can do mega dose, then you can snuff out the fert myths and then focus on the basics of working on the tank: light/CO2, trimming, consistent care, big water changes. While I can get away with no water changes, I do not suggest it for the OP's tank. Nope, that's a chore and a lot of work to keep a garden dutch like tank. Nature style is very easy by comparison in terms of care once the hardscape and planting is done. Diorama's can quickly turn to crap also if good care and good light management are not done. As fa as skills, I think you need much more skill to grow a Dutch tank than the top winners of any scaper contest. Yes, scaping and such is tough and you can spend a lot of time of the design and set up. Different skill set, but once the hardscape is done, it's relatively easy thereafter. Not so with Dutch style tanks. BUT.....Dutch style tanks make more $ than top winning scapes via plant sales. And those dirty rats beat the USA team, but they totally deserved it too.

Hi Tom,

I appreciate you chiming in on the thread. I'm reasonably new to the hobby, and have gone through a steep learning curve.

I've been trying to keep too many species within one tank without knowing their specific requirements. Overcrowding and lack of trimming has been an issue. But more importantly, I've realised my maintenance has not been up to scratch at all, but that's not through laziness or from a lack of trying, just inexperienced.

I value your feedback.

Cheers,
Joel
 
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Hi Tom,

I appreciate you chiming in on the thread. I'm reasonably new to the hobby, and have gone through a steep learning curve.

I've been trying to keep too many species within one tank without knowing their specific requirements. Overcrowding and lack of trimming has been an issue. But more importantly, I've realised my maintenance has not been up to scratch at all, but that's not through laziness or from a lack of trying, just inexperienced.

I value your feedback.

Cheers,
Joel
Well, you have better skills than most people, and particularly for a recent aquatic gardener. Steep learning curves are typical for many. Collectoritis, you have that disease. Many do. If you cannot help yourself there, I suggest a terrarium as most plants grow GreAt that way, like Hygro Chai, both species of Cuphea, any Rotala, any Ammannia etc. A 90 cm x 45x45 tank with a glass lid and some plastic pots with some decent soil, maybe 2-4" cm of water, a shop light, wham. You can keep the plants easily for years. Put in the garage, basement etc, somewhere inside if possible if it's cooler than say 14C, outside in the full shade otherwise. This way you have plenty of species you can try, and you can focus on nice bunches in the garden. Arms in the tank, cleaning algae, wood, sides of the tank, filter intakes, the filter media, preventing intake clogs, BIG water changes(2-3x a week, after any big uprooting event or large trim job or filter cleaning). I often do 50-80%. The water goes to the landscaping outside and the automated version has a 700 liter cistern. Generally this frequency is done to whip the tank into good shape, then after everything is settled in nicely, you return to the once a week routine. Foreground plants love to uproot, so make sure to give them plenty of room and trim the plants closest to those farther back. The other taller plants grow back faster.....and will easily fill in, so do not be scared to hack things back. I think those few things I mentioned should help a lot. You will find many pesky plants, but later you will grow them nicely. Might take a few times. And if you have some growing emergent, you'll have plenty of chances haha. Some things to ponder. CO2 is an art and visual cues really help a lot. Eyeballs are what I use, slow step wise increases and focus on plant growth/health. Good O2 is also a big overlooked factor. You can use more CO2 if the O2 is also good. They are independent mostly.
 
Well, you have better skills than most people, and particularly for a recent aquatic gardener. Steep learning curves are typical for many. Collectoritis, you have that disease. Many do. If you cannot help yourself there, I suggest a terrarium as most plants grow GreAt that way, like Hygro Chai, both species of Cuphea, any Rotala, any Ammannia etc. A 90 cm x 45x45 tank with a glass lid and some plastic pots with some decent soil, maybe 2-4" cm of water, a shop light, wham. You can keep the plants easily for years. Put in the garage, basement etc, somewhere inside if possible if it's cooler than say 14C, outside in the full shade otherwise. This way you have plenty of species you can try, and you can focus on nice bunches in the garden. Arms in the tank, cleaning algae, wood, sides of the tank, filter intakes, the filter media, preventing intake clogs, BIG water changes(2-3x a week, after any big uprooting event or large trim job or filter cleaning). I often do 50-80%. The water goes to the landscaping outside and the automated version has a 700 liter cistern. Generally this frequency is done to whip the tank into good shape, then after everything is settled in nicely, you return to the once a week routine. Foreground plants love to uproot, so make sure to give them plenty of room and trim the plants closest to those farther back. The other taller plants grow back faster.....and will easily fill in, so do not be scared to hack things back. I think those few things I mentioned should help a lot. You will find many pesky plants, but later you will grow them nicely. Might take a few times. And if you have some growing emergent, you'll have plenty of chances haha. Some things to ponder. CO2 is an art and visual cues really help a lot. Eyeballs are what I use, slow step wise increases and focus on plant growth/health. Good O2 is also a big overlooked factor. You can use more CO2 if the O2 is also good. They are independent mostly.

Valuable feedback thank you.

So far, I've only assessed my tank from visual cues. I haven't tested anything to be honest. Well, actually, in the last couple days I've tested my tap water for KH, it reads 3dKH. Used a salifert freshwater KH test kit. The tank is reading 3dKH also. That's it though as far as testing is concerned, all visual cues so far.

I've been doing regular water changes, and vacuuming the soil, but not vacuuming as effectively as I'd thought I had been. Considering the amount of growth from waaaay too many species, my maintenance had not hit the mark at all.
I've cut back on the amount of species, and concentrating on the ones that particularly like my soup, placing a lot more importance on tank cleanliness and plant placement. Plant placement is yet another learning curve, understanding the flow of the tank etc.
From the reducing the number of species in my tank, vacuuming more efficiently and more water changes, I can already see a massive change in just a couple of days.

And yes, I have suffered from plant collectoritis for sure.

Cheers
 
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