So pointing out a couple things: if this method seems really drastic to you, you're not alone. That was my first thought too. But, I didn't discount it, because I know
@spawnerjp is a top notch hobbyist with plenty of obvious success (just look at his tanks!
)
We talk tanks and other stuff often, and Winston was one of the many people along for the ride when my 120p first started going through what turned out to *not* be simple start up algae. It was like nothing I'd ever seen before and hung around through every fight and non-fight I could give it for four months...yikes, just remembering it makes me cringe.
So anyway, Winston was trying out this bleach method at the time and we talked at length about it, and I made the decision to try it. The only difference in our situations was that I was lucky enough to have had someone try it before me. I took every fish out of the tank...the rainbows were easy peasy but I could probably sell the video of me catching 22 Kuhli loaches as a comedy and make a fortune.
I used a long-tip syringe to dose...honestly I can't remember if it was 40, 50, or 60ml at the time, I'd have to go back and check. I used the syringe so I could try to evenly distribute it in the tank. I turned both my canister filters running, left every piece of both mechanical and biological filtration in them, and cranked them up as high as they would go. Obviously left my reactor and everything else in-line as well, I needed to purge this algae out of anywhere it could be in my system...I didn't want to have to do this twice lol.
I think I let it run for 15 minutes before I started the water change process, which is where pretty much all the actual work took place in this whole process. I kept both canisters running at full blast for the entire duration of the multiple water changes. I did them almost back to back, but waited about 15-20mins in-between each one.
Damn near 100% wc, then refill with tap water that I was adding a double dose of dechlorinator to. I used prime but would've loved to have had Seachem Safe on hand for this. Let run for 15-20 mins, then start another water change. I did six water this way, and on the last refill I used my normal RODI water but still added a double dose of dechlorinator for my tank's volume.
*Keep in mind that a lot of the extra stuff I did here was mainly because I was adding all of my fish back into my tank immediately after this, I didn't have equipment to keep them in a bucket or another tank or something over night, and I was super worried about things still containing chlorine. Especially because as I mentioned earlier, I intentionally left all my media in the canister filters.*
After refilling the tank the final time and dosing the dechlorinator, I think I let everything continue to run full blast for another two hours. Then I turned the filters back down to their usual rate, dosed only what I use to remineralize, and added my bows and loaches back in. Zero fatalities as far as fauna.
I can't give accurate results as to flora losses. My tank was in incredibly, incredibly bad shape due to this algae. Whatever it was would grow almost 20" to the surface of my tank in slightly less than 30 hours. Keep in mind that that persisted for about 4 months. Whatever it was took so many nutrients away from my plant mass, and as a result my plants were pretty frail despite looking okay. I only lost something like two erio spp, 24 pcs of centrolepsis drummondiana, and a stem or something else that I can't recall at the moment. But all things considered I didn't mind one bit, I was prepared to have the whole tank nuke because I figured bleach being injected into a tank would be some pretty heavy stuff but, yeah. I barely lost anything.
The algae did not come back. If you do this, you'll see about half your results right away, and the other half gradually over the next three days or so. I could tell there was a positive change in the tank the same night I tried this, a few hours after the procedure before the lights were going down for the night. And the rest of the algae died over the course of the next three days. On day three, I did two back to back water changes to clear out all the melty algae, and it's one of my biggest "why did I not get that on video" regrets. There were just thick, dense sheets of light grey stuff coming up the siphon tube in waves, it was satisfying. Just all dead, grayed out algae. And that was the last of it.
The tank I tried this on took an incredible amount of time, money, and planning to put up, and I almost didn't get it off the ground because of this crazy algae. For anyone interested, yes: I am personally 100% sure this came from Landen substrate. I've talked to two or three other US hobbyists, one overseas hobbyist, and two more stateside hobbyists since I've come out the other side of this hobby. Out of all of those people, only one of them didn't have a freshly purchased and freshly flooded batch of Landen. I don't normally talk in certainties in this hobby, but yet another person I know and talk with regularly just set up a fresh Landen tank and, lo and behold, the same algae.
Winston saved my ass with this method, it's literally the reason this tank is still up today, because after four months of that crap I couldn't take it anymore. I wanted to weigh in with my experience on the procedure seeing as I'm sure a lot of people will second guess the extreme of dosing bleach into a tank, but it definitely worked for me with literally (and surprisingly!) zero negative side effects.
Note: when I was trying to ID the algae I was struggling with in the 120p, I tried to purposely infect another one of my tanks. It worked. That was a 20 long with a completely different substrate, different plants and equipment, etc. I successfully used the bleach method on that tank, but I cut out all the extra steps I'd taken on the 120p. On the 20 long I just did three back to back water changes with tap, dosed a double dose of prime on the last one, fired up all the equipment again, and dosed my normal full ferts etc. That tank was also an instant success with all of the algae dying between the first day and the following three days. The losses in that tank (which were from an already healthy plant mass) can be paid attention too, unlike the losses from my 120p which I don't count seeing as there's no way to tell what did them in. Only losses in the 20 long were half of a small group of Blyxa Japonica, which also melts if I sneeze close to it sometimes fwiw